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Grease Mechanic 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Established by Craig Copelin, 1991
Page Views: 343
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on May 10, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The first three bolts of Grease Mechanic. On the ...

Description 

This obscure route is actually pretty good a sweet compression boulder problem up an arete leads to engaging face climbing above.

To start traverse in from a boulder to get established on the face, head up the arete making powerful slaps between rounded sidepulls and underclings, finishing with a deadpoint to a decent hold next to the third bolt. From here slightly run-out climbing leads to a slot where you can get a finger size piece (I used a .3 & .4 camalot) then engaging face climbing with some slightly hollow holds past two more bolts leads to the anchors.

Location 

Starts towards the left side of North Wall. To the left is an "Unknown Slab Route" to the right is the black streak of "Candlestick"

Protection 

5 Bolts, Finger Size Pro, Stickclip.


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By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
May 10, 2014

The listed grade of 12- felt like a huge sandbag, felt much much harder than the Grijalva route. My estimate is the grade is somewhere between 12c and 13a, basically a V6 or V7 boulder problem. Also I stick-clipped the 3rd bolt, which is lame, but it didn't seem safe for me otherwise. It would be a big fall low on the route, and while you wouldn't deck you would probably hit your belayer. I fell 4 times going for the hold next to the third bolt.
By DaveT
From: Albuquerque
Dec 13, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Really nice boulder problem! And the face afterward is just good fun. Regarding grades, it felt very similar in difficulty (and style) to Loser just down the wall, so it seems like both are 12d or 13a. I repeated Loser today after redpointing Grease Mechanic, so should be a pretty fair comparison (though I maybe had the moves for Loser slightly more wired from working it recently). I also sticked the 3rd bolt - wasn't keen on the fall potential with feet/ropes doing the crux move.
By Craig Copelin
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Jun 2, 2015

Bolted by Craig Copelin, I never got the FA and only top ropped it clean once. The name stuck, and it was designed to have a piece of trad gear above the crux leading into the slab portion. Bolted at the same time as box frenzy, modern day contrivance, and bye bye box baby. bolted around 1991.
By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Jun 2, 2015

Thanks for the info Craig! What was the original grade? I had originally heard it was 12c, but it feels a good bit harder than that. I think the published grade of 12- in RC NM was a typo or a guess by the author. Any idea who got the FA?

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