Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Grease & Grime Wall
Select Route:
Grease & Grime S 

Grease & Grime 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 47
Submitted By: bmdhacks on Aug 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
View from the top of Grease & Grime

Description 

Start on a set of shallow ledges up a darker section of the rock. Not terribly steep climbing for the grade, apart from a single bulge to pull over.

Location 

Up a black streak, currently the only route on the Grease & Grime Wall. See the area description for directions.

Protection 

11 bolts plus chains


Comments on Grease & Grime Add Comment
Show which comments
By dbrown
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought that this route was a really fun climb and not loose at all. Didn't experience any of the negative experiences of the OP. A great climb of Jason's.
By bmdhacks
Sep 20, 2012

Ok, I took the warning out of the description. Just a note that around the time of this comment, I pulled off four or five huge holds and feet. A major hold on the roof pull was loose, and the light colored rock at the top was quite chossy. However, I'm 6' 2" at 195lbs so that could be a contributing factor.
By Jesse James
From: Knoxville, TN
Aug 25, 2013

Definitely choss. The endorsement in the guidebook "possibly one of the best 10b's anywhere" is laughable.
By drock3
Sep 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Found a good amount of bad rock on this route. I'd say it's mostly slab-paddling with 4 feet of climbing. Definitely not a classic as the books suggests.
By James Hicks
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jul 5, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Not sure about the choss comments. I didn't notice much at all. If you get much out of the bolt line I could see it possibly getting a bit chossy. Its a bit mossy down low but other than that it was a super fun route. Nice and airy feeling for the last few bolts. Not sustained really, but we really enjoyed the route. And calling this a 5.9 is just a sandbag comment. The moves to get around the roof/bulge are solid 10b for Maple.
By Courtney Pace
From: Sandy
Aug 27, 2016

Yea the comment in the book as one of the best 10b's around is way off. Fun route though, just nowhere near the best for the grade. The finish is exciting. There is lose stuff about 2/3 way up on the left side of the bolt line, but there is enough out right to avoid the choss.
Worth doing if you are headed up to Lou's Tavern.