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Gray Goose 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 850', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: J. Martin and L. Howard
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Brad Warne on Feb 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Leading pitch 1. This pitch is shared with route &...


Gray Goose climbs grey rock to the right of Kings Chimney. Its a good route for beginners looking to push the grade a little as there are only a few moves of 5.7. All belays are bolted except one in Kings Chimney, which requires gear. A standard rack will do.

Start as for "Easy Street"

P1: Climb the first pitch of "Easy Street" to a belay on a ledge with two bolts. 5.6, 25m

P2: Move left a few meters to the base of a shallow corner and a pin. Climb the corner to a scree ledge and the base of a crack. Climb the crack past two pins and belay on a ledge with two bolts. 5.7, 40m

P3: Move up and right to the base of a large crack (Unnamed) and two pitons. From the pins climb a slab up and left past a bolt to a right facing corner. Climb the corner and continue up and left past a block which you pass on the right side to a ledge belay and two bolts. 5.6, 40m

P4: Climb the slab up and left through discontinuous grooves past two pins. The grooves will eventually lead you into "Kings Chimney" where you can make a belay off gear. 5.6, 45m

P5: Climb "Kings Chimney" past a steep section to where two options present themselves. Either continue up the chimney to where it ends with a four bolt belay or, climb shattered rock up and left out of the chimney to a ledge and the same belay. The second option is a little more run-out. 5.5, 30m

P6: From the belay traverse left past a pin and further a two bolt belay for "Direct Mail". Climb up and left past a steep bulge and continue traversing passing four pitons. Climb down and left past another pin to the large ledge (BBQ Ledge) and a two bolt belay. 5.5, 25m

P7: Finish as per one of the "West End Finishes".

Photos of Gray Goose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View to route from descent, Most of the route is b...
View to route from descent, Most of the route is b...

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