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Gravity's Rainbow 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A1

Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A1 [details]
FA: L. Ellison, H. Armantrout, 1982
Page Views: 1,124
Submitted By: mountainsense on Nov 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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The A1 move

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Gravity's Rainbow begins in a right-arching hand crack that quickly widens to OW, then into an awkward squeeze. Savor the "Little Cottonwood Lean" as you move out of the maw, then onto the wafer-thin flake above. Traverse right along the splitter, undercling flake to a two-bolt anchor. From the belay, climb past a mahogany and to a finger crack leading up to an overlap. Surmount the bulge by aiding off of the antique 1/4" bolt on the slab above; undercling-lieback the right-angling corner--the rock quality really begins to degrade here--and into a small alcove. The Ruckman topo shows the line traversing off of the slab to the right; however, it is also possible to climb directly out of the gritty alcove to the rappel tree--a small, uninspiring mahogany tree adorned by faded tat.


Bring along a standard LCC rack up to 4" for the first pitch, doubles are not necessary, but may prove useful--long slings are a must for the second pitch to reduce rope drag.


Gravity's Rainbow begins 15 feet to the left of the start to Boomerang.

Photos of Gravity's Rainbow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the fun flake post hell session
the fun flake post hell session
Rock Climbing Photo: knee pads are advised
knee pads are advised
Rock Climbing Photo: struggling to make progress
struggling to make progress

Comments on Gravity's Rainbow Add Comment
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By mountainsense
Nov 9, 2009

Though a bit awkward, the crux wideness seems easier then the grade suggests; the second pitch, as far as i know, has yet to be freed...
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 27, 2012

More hard lcc OW. Compared to Cashmere Crack this one is a breeze, but still not easy. Milk the jams in the back while they last, then do a few hard chicken wing whatevers before getting a thank goodness hand jams in the flake. Gear: 1 each .5 to #3 camalot, nothing bigger needed. I hauled my big cams up hoping for some action but found better gear in the back. Fun flake action to top, 2 bolt anchor with wasp nest nearby.
Key beta: left side in, all gear on right side, have .5 ready to place with QD attached, make sure rope is on left side. Send it.
Apr 30, 2013

"Key Beta" proved to be not very key

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