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Gravity Heroes 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Kurt Hager
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 680
Submitted By: KurtH on Mar 9, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Gravity Heroes


Previously overlooked, forgotten or just not considered, this is a new and fun line on good rock quality (at least by RW standards). This is the "easy" version of the open project left of NSP. A full value, atypical Red Wing climb with great movement throughout that progressively gets harder and harder.

Start on the Relentless crack (#3 Cam) to bypass the open project crux and enjoy cool moves exiting the crack. Traverse right to clip the 3rd bolt of the direct start (note that the direct start shares the first bolt with NSP). From here cruise up big 5.11 lock-offs on decent holds, catch your breath on two pockets, then charge into a crimpy, techy and powerful crux complete with a big ol' high step and heartbreaking deadpoint.

ALSO THE DIRECT START GOES AND SHOULD BE DONE!!! Maybe V9-10 crux...I've seen plenty of people strong enough in the gym to make it happen.


Left of NSP


Bring one #3 Cam OR several pads and a really good spotter, plus 5 draws.

Photos of Gravity Heroes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper half the route
The upper half the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the crux
Entering the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting Relentless and entering the face of Gravit...
Exiting Relentless and entering the face of Gravit...

Comments on Gravity Heroes Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Mar 10, 2015

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 21, 2015

a welcome addition. fun crux with enjoyable holds and pure movement. good entry-level for the grade, especially if you lack endurance. there are downsides to the climb, such as quality of rock and the less than direct nature of the line itself. no matter, many red wing routes share those distractors. new is new. enjoy it.

now, for that direct start. it is very thin, with a small gaston and a smaller crimp. bad feet, too. looks like v9. i'll give it a whirl and report back.

one last thing: one can stick click the first bolt, climb the crack and step over to the second bolt, then head up from there. this way, you do not need any trad gear.

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