Sustained, varied climbing on one of the cleanest formations on the Chief.
1. 5.10c. Awkward flare leads to face traverse and right leaning crack.
2. 5.11c. Scruffy ramp to chimney. Pull out of chimney into pumpy, vertical layback, face climbing traverse past one bolt to the anchor.
3. "The Guillotine" 5.12a. A few face moves into lasercut dihedral. Tips crux widens to off hands jamming and laybacking, undercling down and left to belay stance.
WARNING! A fully detached 50' X 60' flake is perched on the wall right of the lasercut dihedral, the edge of which offers tantalizing hand jams and stemming opportunities. It is easily avoided by staying in the main corner. It is very loose and flexes alarmingly with very little pressure. DON'T TOUCH.
4. 5.12c. Fully (6) bolted. Overhanging stemming and laybacking. After the fifth bolt wild moves pull out and around the arete.
5. 5.12a. The cryptic pitch. Face traverse right to ramp. Finger crack to technical face trending back left to belay.
6. 5.12b. A short, crisp splitter leads to deceivingly pumpy hand traverse. Overhanging tips crux quickly relents to vertical 5.9 hands in an amazing position near the edge of the prow.
7. 5.11c. Finger traverse and face climb around the edge of the prow into Teddy Bears Picnic, a short pitch.
8. 5.13a. Changing corners pitch. Fully (5) bolted. Powerful and bouldery.
9. 5.12a. Up corner to crux reach to arete. The difficulty of this pitch varies greatly depending on reach.
Approach via Apron to Kashmir Wall. Walk 10 minutes up the South Gulley to the base. First pitch isn't visible until your underneath it.
1 X 00, 0, 3 metolius, 2 camalot, nuts.
2 x 1,2 metolius, .75 camalot.
3 x 1 camalot.
Quickdraws and runners.
All belays are fixed, it is possible to rap off at any point with 2 ropes.
By Evan Stevens
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
five star route, one of the top 5 in squamish for sure! Short cruxes that are usually well protected but lots of sustained 5.11. Rack beta is mostly good, we took 3 .75 camalots and 3 1 camalots, but never used 3 1 camalots. Some details...pitch 1 is terrible, dirty, loose, and a bit stiff for the grade, but don't worry the climbing is way better after that. pitch 3...the guillotine...it needs to get pulled off the wall, it is terrifying and i could not climb the pitch with out touching it, and it is directly above your belayer. pitch 4 is pretty chill for 12c, all bolts, typical squamish tips laybacks, stemming and chimneying. pitch 5...i put a 1 meter core shot in my rope on this pitch, i don't know how, but lots of sharp edges so be careful. pitch 6 is one of the most amazing pitches in Squamish, short 12b crux. pitch 7 is a one move one bolt, 5 meter move the belay kind of deal. Now you are on teddy bears picnic and its HARD, but don't sweat it if you can't do the crux pitch, there is a bolt ladder variation. the last pitch is no harder than mid 5.11 if you find the right foot hold or are taller than 5.10, again a one move wonder super short pitch, but it has the best top out around. Enjoy!
By Colin Moorhead
Sep 15, 2010
Repeat attempts by several very capable locals have upgraded the crux to .13a. Both these guys have actually redpointed the pitch via Teddy Bears Picnic previously, but were shut down on it on their Gravity Bong ascents, conceding that they are indeed sandbagging SOB's.
Feb 5, 2011
WOW. What a beautiful line; strong work, gentlemen!
By fat cow
From: St. Paul, MN
Jan 25, 2012
I love gravity bongs! This looks pretty cool too.