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e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
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Coexistence T 
Credibility Gap T 
Dangler, The T 
Dry Martini T 
Fall to Grace T 
Fly Again T 
Graveyard Shift T 
Higher Stannard T 
Impenetrable Ceilings  T 
Interstice T 
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 
Land Ho! T 
Land's End (Direct) T 
Laughing Man T 
Men At Arms T 
Mother's Day Party T 
Overhanging Layback T 
Redirectional Idealism T 
Scene of the Climb T 
Something Boring T 
Something Interesting T 
Star Action T 
Still Crazy After All These Years T 
Tequila Mockingbird T 
Three Pines T 
Tough Existence T 
Tough Shift T 
Try Again T 
Welcome to the Gunks T 

Graveyard Shift 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Russ Raffa & Rich Ross - 1978
Page Views: 4,671
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Getting into the crux


This is one of the rightmost climbs on the MF wall. It begins at a short, thin, black RP crack.

Climb this (somewhat scary), up to better gear and harder climbing. Lower off a two-bolt anchor. 5.10d, 80'.

Added from a local:

Possibly the best route on the Mac wall, and that is saying something. A superb and rewarding lead that is hard to beat. While all the gear is good, it can be tricky to get; it can be slightly runout and the climbing is far from trivial. An excellent choice for those solid on hard 5.10

Start as for Star Action. Climb straight up thin face about 15 feet to a very small ledge. From here climb the bulging face at a flake that is sitting on the small ledge. There is good gear to be had but it's strenuous to get; this section can be a little pumpy. Move slightly left and up to a small broken ledge and good rest. Continue up to the base of a nice left facing corner, get in some gear, and prepare to work up the tricky face just to the left of the corner. Next up is the crux overlap - get in bomber gear, and pull the technical and challenging sequence, moving up very slightly left and then back right, then follow a nice flake to just below the finish overhang. Pull over and traverse left to the chains shared with Star Action.


Standard Rack.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 23, 2016
By david goldstein
Jan 27, 2007

GS is an exhilirating climb to which this post does not do justice. I don't remember much about the lower part but the crux roof is still clear. Good gear is to be had at the start of the (small) roof, so you feel well protected pulling the crux. The exhilirating part is that the next gear is probably 20 feet past the gear at the start of the roof; I recall it as one of those situations where each move is easier than the previous, but a pump begins to set in and your mind starts playing tricks.
By David Wilkerson
From: Rockville, MD
May 27, 2008

I agree with the last post, this is a great climb. Definitely one of the coolest cruxes on the Mac Wall.
By Greg Sudlow
From: PA
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Thrice the first comment above, it is a shame that original route post can’t be edited if they tell so little about the route. Nevertheless, this climb is one of the best in the Gunks with great variation, technical moves and stellar positioning.
Jun 10, 2010

I asked a local dude, Dave, to supplement the description, and added it in italics above ... hope it helps!
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Aug 6, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

A super climb. Not having the right sized cam at the crux made it pretty spicy.
By David Stowe
Aug 7, 2010

If you have tricams they go great at the crux
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 3, 2010

Great climb! I agree it is the best on the MF wall. Surprisingly technical at the crux. If you hang out too long figuring out the sequence the pump will sneak up on you. Not a handbag!
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

5 red c3s/green aliens - a new record!
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Feb 25, 2015

There seems to be a fair amount of complaining regarding the original post of the description of Graveyard Shift. If you feel strongly that the description is woefully inadequate step up to the plate and use the new "IMPROVE THIS PAGE" feature to add an articulate and glowing description of the climb.
Feb 26, 2015

To be fair, the Improve function was added in 2014.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Feb 26, 2015

Because my description is sooooo baaaad. Classic case of petty Gunkie squabbling about their precious tiny piece of real estate.

Does the description get you there? Yes. Does it tell you where the line goes? Yes. Does it tell you something about the quality of the route and the protection? Yes.

Sorry I didn't write a ten paragraph description for this 50' rock climb. It's not like it's the Rainbow Wall , the Moonlight Buttress , or even the Yellow Wall for that matter. Of course, when I do people complain I provide too much beta and remove any sense of adventure from the experience.
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
Apr 23, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Quite a step up in commitment from Coexistence. It is more sustained, more technical, and definitely has larger fall/pendulum potential! Nothing bigger than a .75 c4 is necessary or even placable for that matter. Fantastic moves and position! This is as good as single pitch trad climbing gets!

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