REI Community
Dance Hall of the Dead
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brutal Planet T,TR 
Cold Nipples and Busch T 
Cryptic T,TR 
Grateful Head S,TR 
Lean Into It S 
Servant of the Bones T,S 
Smiling Mortician, The T,TR 
Unnamed corner to dirty crack T 
Unnamed thin hands through bulge T 
Watusi Afterworld S,TR 

Grateful Head 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pon & Mills
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: JFM on Feb 19, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ross on lead.

Description 

Climb up a slab, over 2 lumps, and past a little pine tree. The crux is working out toward the edge of the south-face on moderately thin feet, going up, and over.

Hiro adds:
After you get up onto the rib, it's easy going, the middle of the route is the difficult stuff. Also note that there's a nice, healthy, little tree below the second (?) bolt (a pin actually), which gets in the way of the rope. I went right to avoid the rope on the the tree, and used a shoulder length runner to keep the rope away from the tree/rock. My partner went left of the tree (which I think is easier climbing) but spent the time to try to get the rope over and around the tree

Location 

This route is the first bolted route to the right of "Brutal Planet," the obvious crack toward the left side of the formation.

Protection 

5 bolts and 2 pitons lead to a 2 bolt anchor. One piton is "hidden" behind the small pine tree (3rd clip) & is well-served if extended with a sling.


Photos of Grateful Head Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Approximate route & bolt (x) / piton (p) locations...
BETA PHOTO: Approximate route & bolt (x) / piton (p) locations...

Comments on Grateful Head Add Comment
Show which comments
By Hiro Kurotsuchi
From: Colorado
Jul 11, 2012

I'd give this route a 5.10b rating, my partner was suggesting 10c/d. The slabby portions are difficult if you aren't a skilled slab climber. I'm not sure what 10a slab is vs. 10d slab (vs 11a for that matter). So I'll just say that at multiple places there are minimal holds where you just have to step up, the angles are low enough at some of those spots to not make it really scary.

After you get up onto the rib, it's easy going, the middle of the route is the difficult stuff. Also note that there's a nice, healthy, little tree below the second (?) bolt (a pin actually), which gets in the way of the rope. I went right to avoid the rope on the the tree, and used a shoulder length runner to keep the rope away from the tree/rock. My partner went left of the tree (which I think is easier climbing) but spent the time to try to get the rope over and around the tree.

Gillett book gives is 5.9+. So ok, perhaps it is the 5.9+ aka the most scary grade out there. Probably best not to hand this off to a new leader, especially if you are expecting Boulder Canyon grading.
By Andrew S.
From: Bouldurr
Jan 27, 2017

There's no way this thing is 10b or c/d. 5.9 seemed about right to me. Using the crack helps getting to the second pin on the small face after the little tree. The rest of the route is pulling a few bulges, but if you look around, you'll find what you need to keep it mellow.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About