|Type:||Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Pon & Mills|
|Submitted By:||JFM on Feb 19, 2011|
|Comments on Grateful Head||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Hiro Kurotsuchi
Jul 11, 2012
I'd give this route a 5.10b rating, my partner was suggesting 10c/d. The slabby portions are difficult if you aren't a skilled slab climber. I'm not sure what 10a slab is vs. 10d slab (vs 11a for that matter). So I'll just say that at multiple places there are minimal holds where you just have to step up, the angles are low enough at some of those spots to not make it really scary.
After you get up onto the rib, it's easy going, the middle of the route is the difficult stuff. Also note that there's a nice, healthy, little tree below the second (?) bolt (a pin actually), which gets in the way of the rope. I went right to avoid the rope on the the tree, and used a shoulder length runner to keep the rope away from the tree/rock. My partner went left of the tree (which I think is easier climbing) but spent the time to try to get the rope over and around the tree.
Gillett book gives is 5.9+. So ok, perhaps it is the 5.9+ aka the most scary grade out there. Probably best not to hand this off to a new leader, especially if you are expecting Boulder Canyon grading.
By Andrew S.
Jan 27, 2017
|There's no way this thing is 10b or c/d. 5.9 seemed about right to me. Using the crack helps getting to the second pin on the small face after the little tree. The rest of the route is pulling a few bulges, but if you look around, you'll find what you need to keep it mellow.|