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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 21, 2014

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>


This is the natural extension of Heaven's Falling. Climb onto the ledge above those anchors and continue up through the ledgy red rock. Gear here may be tenuous, but the climbing is casual. Get up into the flaky finger cracks and pull through the dead-vertical wall. Protection is obvious, though be aware of possibly loose sections. The exposure builds as you reach the anchor and have to mount the block to clip in.


Lower Dragon Ridge, left of obvious Commissary Crack. Follows the thin cracks through the upper headwall.


Gear to 1.5"
Dangerous lead bolts (2004)
Titanium anchors (2014)

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By Danger
From: Taipei City
May 31, 2015

Bring a rack if you want to climb this safely - there is a runout after the first ledge which can be easily protected with gear, and one of the bolts near the top has a crack through it.

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