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Joe on the FA of Grape Nuts.
North face of Green Eggs and Ham. The route begins at the base of the seam that splits the center of the face. Set up your belay at the top from a natural arch, a large patina plate, and cam under the dike at the top of the route. Descend by downclimbing (5.5 or so) to (or rappelling from the patina plate to) the notch above Pancakes and Cornflakes and walking down the gravelly slope. Alternately, continue to the top of the formation and downclimb a water groove on the east face of the rock/
Route follows the obvious seam up the middle of the face. Start by jamming the seam (good hands) and the pillar leaning against the wall. Or lieback the pillar. From the top of the pillar, it's two or three moves to the crux, a move off of smears and slopey edges to a one-hand undercling in a small pod. From the crux it's another 30 feet of 5.7 or so climbing on small holds to a change in the rock near the top where you can build your belay.
FA was protected with three nuts. Entire climb can be protected with gear up to 1 inch. Bring a #3 Camalot and a lot of slings, static line, or webbing to build an anchor at the top.
Me, near the top of Grape Nuts on the day of the f...
Cambria hiking the upper section of Grape Nuts
Cambria working through the lichen on Grape Nuts
Thuy halfway up Grape Nuts.
BETA PHOTO: Joe steps off the pillar into the seam on the firs...
By Chris D
From: the couch
Mar 12, 2012
Despite being thick with brightly colored lichen, this route had already cleaned up nicely after a dozen or so repeats. It will only get better with more traffic!