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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brad Shaver, 1976
Page Views: 6,993
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Feb 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (150)
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Passing the crux


Like Harrison Shull says in the guidebook, you should be solid at the grade before jumping on this one. I think the hardest moves come before you get any gear in. The potential fall is hard to describe, but you'll see it when you're looking at the route.
That said, Granola is a pretty fun undercling/crack route once you pull those first moves. And they're not that hard...


The route is just right of Fruit Loops. Scramble up the large detached flake and belay from here. The "opening moves" involve a mantel on good holds up another flake.
Double-bolt rap anchor.
(The guidebook describes a second pitch, but I haven't done it. Most people don't. It looks fun, though.)


Take a variety of smaller stuff (up to a #2 camalot). Anything you place under the initial undercling roof should be slung long.

Photos of Granola Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael on a blue bird day
Michael on a blue bird day
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the base of the standing flake to the an...
BETA PHOTO: View from the base of the standing flake to the an...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Granola traverse
The Granola traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Whisenhunt completing the crux.
Chris Whisenhunt completing the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric at the crux of Granola
Eric at the crux of Granola
Rock Climbing Photo: Denmark on Granola, Rumbling Bald, NC
Denmark on Granola, Rumbling Bald, NC

Comments on Granola Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 7, 2017
By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
Jan 20, 2009

Second pitch climbs from under the roof at the anchors via a big crack. Pull this and romp to the top. I think there were rings up there also.
By ziggy
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

It would be wise if you are afraid of the opening moves to lead Fruit Loops first then place your first piece of gear for Granola on rappel. A fall from the crux moves (the opening moves) would be punishing. You would fall between 10'-25' into a Chimney system.
By cshuey77 shuey
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Should be solid at the grade, its a nasty fall.
By Phoffmann
Nov 23, 2010

The two second pitch vars. are excellent.
Var.1: From the belay anchors at the top of P1. Climb the fist crack out left overhead and turn the lip at 5.8. #4 camalot is helpful. Climb moderate terrain to two bolt belay.

Var.2: Traverse right from the P1 belay to gain a finger crack in a steep roof. Plug bomber gear and vault out over the lip on a few jugs. Belay from bolts on Frosted Flake. 5.9 Rap Frosted Flake and get your top rope on!
By Sam Stephens
Jan 20, 2011

Pitch 2 is worth doing. Watch the rope drag and string it out into one long pitch. Belay from the anchors up top and have fun getting back to the rings at the top of the first "pitch".
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Dec 30, 2011

I didn't find the fall potential to be too bad... Getting up to the first ledge is easy, and from there it's one solid mantle up to the crack and pro. The undercling traverse that follows is fun and heady. The main crack goes easy, with a little surprise waiting at the very end. Make sure to top rope Whiskey for Breakfast from the anchors!
By Tylerclimb Labelle
From: Huntersville, North Carolina
Mar 13, 2013

I fell at the crux and I feel very lucky to only have sore feet now a week later. I could hardly walk after catching booth heels on that flake. I did get back up and finish the route. I think next time I won't mess around under the roof. Just place one piece and go. As soon as you get around the corner it's easy.
By dave Hause
From: carrboro, nc
Nov 24, 2014

The opening is a little awkward but not hard. Slab traverse with an undercling that can be protected.
By JohnnyRemein
From: Asheville
Nov 26, 2015

First moves aren't that terrible if you have comfortable slab feet, traverse protects well with nuts that are very easily removed (hence alternate identity "Grape NUTS!"). As others have said, sling pro under flake roof long, especially your last piece. Fun laybacking to crack slab romping. Rap rings at anchors.
By Brian Abram
From: Celo, NC
Jun 21, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

There's gear to be placed on the traverse to make the start relatively safe, but know this section has seen its share of very serious accidents, including a broken back. NC doesn't like to award the grades of 5.7 or 5.9 very often for whatever reason. Many routes get the infamously diverse 5.8+ when 5.9 is more appropriate.
By Vanessa Gremler
From: Hendersonville, NC
Jul 7, 2017

We traversed over from Fruit Loops to set the top rope up and it seemed to be a pretty good idea. Love this climb because my friends who climb a little harder than me have the ability to hit something thats ~5.10 (going straight over the volume and using the crack) while I can hit the ~5.8 on the side (going around the roof to the left) from the same top rope.

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