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Shanty Cliff
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Grandson of Circuitous Shit 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Justin Serpico
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: J. Serpico on Oct 7, 2014

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Technically this is a V1 version of Son of Circuitous Shit.

P1: Begin as for Son of Circuitous Shit. Climb up the chimney to where it begins to be choked with trees. Exit right onto the face using the hand size horizontal crack (filled with snake skins). Zig zag your way up the face to the next horizontal crack (brown tricam protects well). Exit this crack and go right around the arête onto the upper slabs awkwardly straddling the arete using holds on both sides. Friction up past a horizontal covered by a flake and mantle up to the ridge. Walk the flat rock to an appropriate belay (trees or gear anchors).


Same as Son of Circuitous Shit. 35ft uphill of the right end of the low roof system or 10ft left of the wide crack that is the start of Circuitous Shit.


A mix of gear will protect this climb well. Sizes from blue CCH Alien to a #2 Camalot with an emphasis on finger size gear. Tricams up to brown were helpful. I found protecting the second on this variation difficult. I believe the other routes traverse further right on the low angle slabs. Exiting directly up to the ridge leaves ground fall potential once the final cam is removed, although the leader is well protected.

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