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Grand Theft Otto 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: T. Bubb, J. Meir, 7/2014
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces S/SW - AM shade.
Page Views: 47
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 30, 2014

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Description 

A slightly tweaky route that we could find no record of, and no sign of passage on. We did it. It is a single very long pitch of about 200'.
P1, 5.11-, 200': Scramble up to the base of 'Sterk Naken og Biltyvene' and aim for a left-leaning crack splitting a blunt arete from the base up and left. Climb this crack to access the left side of the arete and step left onto that face, the first crux. This is a balancy move and not ideally protected. Once on the left face, a good cam or two can be placed before the second and true crux. Transition up and left on face holds (thin) to a seam/crack that leas up and left to a shallow, hanging, right facing corner. Climb that corner (now easier grade) to the ledge above, where the P1 belay of Pianohandler Lunds Drom is. The directness of this line allows you to continue climbing as a single pitch, but a belay is optional here. Step left and into a short right facing corner, aiming for a crack above that will connect through a bulge to a set of additional right-facing corners, then onto a lower angle, south facing slab, continuing up a crack there to reach the second belay of Dagens Rett and belay. You will be near the end of a 60M rope here.
Walking off left (West) is an option, or finish with P3 of Dagens Rett (5.9+) to the true summit.

Location 

This route starts up a crack on a blunt arete just above the start of 'Sterk Naken og Biltyvene' and can be seen as a crack system on the topo on P102 of the guidebook. It crosses Pianohandler Lunds Drom at that route's first belay and continues up and left through more undocumented territory to a ledge to share a belay with the second pitch of Dagens Rett, which climbs further to the left.

Protection 

A full rack from tiny to 4" with lots of slings for nearly 200 feet of climbing on a single pitch. Walk off to the West (or include 1 rap) as for Pianohandler.


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