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Grand Teton NP - Dissappointment Peak - Irenes Arete/East Ridge conditions?
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Jun 25, 2016
Hi all,

I'll be on a road trip and was hoping to climb Irenes and the East Ridge standard route around July 8-10. Does anyone know if I should expect any snow or ice on either of these climbs or on the descent? Thanks!
JayMorse
From Hooksett, New Hampshire
Joined Jul 1, 2013
88 points
Jun 27, 2016
Hi Jay,

I climbed the east ridge on disappointment on Saturday and I think the decent is still made safer with an ice axe. As long as you descend when the snow softens up you could leave the crampons in the car. I heard the meadows are melting out but someone who has hiked Garnet lately would know better.
Cameron Sumpter
From Lander, WY
Joined Aug 1, 2010
84 points
Jun 28, 2016
You don't need crampons and axe for the approach, or for the descent down the SE ridge to Amphitheater lake. The SW couloir descent back to the Caves looked pretty snowy (photo below taken Thursday 6/23).
Rock Climbing Photo: Irene's 6/23
Irene's 6/23
Eben Freeman
From San Francisco, CA
Joined Feb 1, 2011
17 points
Jun 30, 2016
Irene's Arete Condition Report:

Climbed today, 6/29, and used ice axe on the approach and the descent.

Approach: There was no boot pack across a mandatory snowfield and we were both much more comfortable crossing steep snow with an axe. Would have been sketchy without an axe.

Descent (SE Ridge towards Amphitheater): While not totally necessary, our axes came in handy for a short stint.

Consensus: Bring it just to be safe. If you don't want to bring an axe then climb Open Book (or go home).

JayMorse: By July 8th, I imagine an axe will not be necessary. It is amazing how quickly snow melts. Hopefully someone else can provide solid beta before then.

Have Fun!
Prametheus
From Jackson, WY
Joined May 25, 2013
61 points
Jun 30, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
JayMorse wrote:
Hi all, I'll be on a road trip and was hoping to climb Irenes and the East Ridge standard route around July 8-10. Does anyone know if I should expect any snow or ice on either of these climbs or on the descent? Thanks!


Edit...ahhh...East Ridge of Disappointment...can be snow on the traverse back to the descent but, in the pm, usually soft. I'd probably take an axe for safety. Some don't. A fall could be really bad or inconsequental.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
13,072 points


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