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Grand Teton in June
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Dec 8, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Devils Lake
Planning on doing the Owen Spalding route in late June next year (2013) and Im just seeking some knowledge on average snow conditions for this time of the year, if any, on both the approach and the climb. Also any information on the ability to camp or bivy on the lower saddle and any route data or variations not listed on the main page. Thanks for your help! Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
From Portland, OR
Joined Jun 14, 2012
173 points
Dec 8, 2012
Upper Exum gets more sun and is dried out earlier in the season, and is a better route.

Have you looked at the NPS website for Grand Teton National Park?
mark felber
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2005
66 points
Dec 9, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: RJN
I second the upper exum. Don't mess with the Owen Spaulding it's not really climbing at all. If your going to haul all your shit up the 7 miles and several thousand feet do upper exum. Also if your going to bivy on the lower saddle GO LITE! Ryan N
From Bellingham, WA
Joined May 21, 2009
178 points
Dec 9, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Solar Collector
Upper exum is much more committing than the owen spalding, but if you are competent enough and skilled enough, go for the upper exum MrZ
From Colorado
Joined Dec 17, 2010
282 points
Dec 9, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: The route in it's entirety.
2 seasons ago in June the Grand saw the most Ski decents it's ever seen back to back. Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
842 points
Dec 9, 2012
Regardless of route conditions it is highly likely that you'll need an ice axe (and know how to use it) to get to the lower saddle.

I second the comments re the Upper Exum vs. the OS....

Paul
Paul Gagner
Joined Oct 9, 2007
79 points
Dec 12, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Devils Lake
Thanks for all the info! Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
From Portland, OR
Joined Jun 14, 2012
173 points
Dec 12, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fu...
While we're on the topic of the Grant Teton, anyone have any beta on late winter/early spring ascents of OS or upper Exum? Specifically, is there typically enough snow to make the entire approach ski-able car to lower saddle and back? If one could ski out instead of slog, it would certainly be nice . . . Climbing car to car in September that hike out was kind of brutal (or maybe I'm just a sissy).

Cory
From Boise, ID
Joined Mar 25, 2008
2,526 points


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