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Grand Parade
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Grand Parade 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Stan Price
Page Views: 240
Submitted By: Monster Mary on Sep 9, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Bo Earle leading

Description 

15 feet of hands leads to about 60 feet of hard finger crack with sequential and thoughtful jamming, crimping, and pinching. You'll leave this crack pumped and grinning for the final 40 feet of bolted face climbing. Truly, the crux might be placing tricky gear without peeing your pants. But if you get to TR this beauty, then you'll find it comes about 20 feet up and lasts about 15 feet. The top face climbing section is bolted with some generous cowboy spacing; but if you led this far, it shouldn't leave you shaking in your boots.

  • Watch out for a hornets nest in a pocket left of the first bolt. They are easily avoidable. But, around dusk they come out and come after you, even if you do climb right and avoid the pocket. I would not advise climbing this route around sunset. But please don't let them scare you off this amazing climb. I'm deathly allergic to hornets and had no trouble avoiding them!

Location 

Long crack splitting a face. Have to step thirty feet or so away from the rock to spot the anchors.

Protection 

nuts, offset nuts, double rack small cams up to 0.5, 1x#1.0, maybe tricams, 3 bolts, chains.


Photos of Grand Parade Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Nguyen sending (pic courtesy of Nathanial Goo...
Andy Nguyen sending (pic courtesy of Nathanial Goo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Grand Parade Beta
BETA PHOTO: Grand Parade Beta
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Nguyen getting a tricky nut placement and kee...
Andy Nguyen getting a tricky nut placement and kee...

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