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Grand Larceny 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Kenny Parker 1989
Season: All
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Aug 16, 2013

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Exciting would be an understatement! This route will surely test your mettle. The second clip may be the most challenging part of the route. Good luck!

Start below the first bolt on some sloped rails. Gain a good mail slot below the first bolt. Plug a TCU and head up to the bolt. Clip the bolt and explode to the large sloping ramp feature that runs up to the second bolt. Sustained crimping and difficult footwork leads to the second bolt and possibly the crux of the route. Figure out how to clip it and not take the big fall onto the first bolt. Work your way to a large ledge feature up and right, this may be the onsight crux as it is very confusing. Once on the nice perch, reach way left to get a slotted #1 Camalot, which can also be backed up with a #2. Pump up to the flake feature just below the third bolt and make some steep moves to get to the nice clipping stance. The tree may need to be pruned to make this section more visible. Make a few more moves up and right into a groove feature to gain the two shut anchor. Take a deep breathe now that the wild ride is over.


The route is just left of a large crack and about 50' right of Emerald Dance. Look for the obvious sloping ramp feature that goes up and right between the first two bolts. 60m rope will easily get you down.


A few smaller TCU's, #1 and #2 Camalots, QD's for the 3 bolts, and some shoulder slings to keep it running smooth. Two older shuts at the top will get you down. There was surface corrosion, but they seem to be in good shape.

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