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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Routes Sorted
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Arms Bazaar T 
Beethoven's Fifth T 
Bell Air T,S 
Bell Buster S 
Cosmosis T 
Daedulus Direct T 
Double Jeopardy T 
Epiphany T 
Epiphany Direct T 
Freak on a Leash S 
Front Line T 
Frontier T 
Gates of Eden T 
Grand Inquisitor T 
Headwall T 
Hound Dog S 
Joe Pontiac T 
Little Man in the Boat T 
North Face T 
Pitts, The T 
Purpose, The T,S 
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 
Saved by the Bell T 
Spoiled Moose, The T 
Spoils, The T 
Three Minute Hero T 
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 
Tiers T 
Unknown T 
Unknown Crack T 
Verve S 
West Crack T 
West Face T 
Wrinkles T 

Grand Inquisitor 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Alec Sharp,..., and Chuck Fitch?
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,300
Submitted By: slevin on Jul 12, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Adam Brink on Grand Inquisitor.

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  • Description 

    One of the trad testpieces from the late '70s, GI is located on the left side of Bell, just right of the tree at the start of Hound Dog.

    From a right hand jam (or lay away) and right foot cam, clip the bolt and power up to a sloping finger bucket, match, and throw for the jug. Climbers under 18 are allowed to just campus this, but the rest of us can make use of some small smears to set up the throw. Make strenuous moves up and find tricky gear (stoppers, small TCU), then step left around the corner on finger crimps, move up s few feet, then back right and into a crack formed by the right side of a pillar. This is the original line; it is possible to climb straight up from the gear over a difficult bulge. To get to this point directly (harder, powerful and pumpy- this is how The Purpose i.e. "Chop Your Dieckhoff" was accessed when led on gear). Follow the crack to its top, clip a bolt, then climb 10 or so feet of thin 5.10 to where the climbing eases (scary). Clip the rap anchors after you de-pump.

    It is an excellent pitch of climbing.


    Bring a set of RPs & wired nuts, TCUs or Aliens, up to a 3" cam (you could use a 3.5" cam in the crack behind the pillar before clipping the 2nd bolt). Note, the crux is well-protected by a "newer" bolt that resides next to the original quarter incher (which was placed using a ladder!). There is a little bit of a runout moving left around the corner after the crux. The "s" rating is for the 15 foot 5.10 runout at the top, after the 2nd bolt.

    Photos of Grand Inquisitor Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Original 1/4" button head expansion bolt w/ L...
    BETA PHOTO: Original 1/4" button head expansion bolt w/ L...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of GI moves left out of the crack feature to...
    BETA PHOTO: Start of GI moves left out of the crack feature to...

    Comments on Grand Inquisitor Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 20, 2004

    The hanger on the lower bolt is missing (5-20-04). It needs to be replaced.
    By josh wharton
    Jun 13, 2004

    I replaced the hanger on the 3/8" stud (bolt that protects the opening dyno)--please don't take it. Would be great if someone took the time to pull the old buttonhead. --josh wharton
    By kevin murphy
    From: Lafayette, Colorado
    Sep 13, 2009

    Little vid I made from a day out mid summer.
    By Patrick Vernon
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Sep 23, 2012
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R

    Didn't find any knee lock on this one, pretty pumpy climbing with a difficult crux that felt harder than .12a especially when compared to Arms Bazaar. The runout up top gets easier the higher you go, but you go a ways above that last bolt!
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 11, 2015
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

    Thanks for your work, Jo! You did a great job. I had to search for the old, patched up bolt holes.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jul 12, 2015

    That should be Alec Sharp (no 'e' on the end) for the FA. I believe Chuck Fitch was also involved.

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