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05W - Easy Gully Area
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Grand Illusion 


Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 300'
Original: WI4+ [details]
FA: John Bouchard, Steve Zajchowski, 1975
Season: Winter
Page Views: 683
Submitted By: Sam Fox on Jan 18, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Easy Gully. Orange - Black Sunshine Yellow - Domi...

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review


Grand Illusion is a phenomenally fun and gorgeous route. It begins near the top of easy gully, which gives it an alpine feel and provides stellar exposure and gorgeous views of the notch.

Pitch 1/Approach gully: From near the top of easy gully follow a right trending gully (~180’) leading towards the pyramid. This gully consists of 4-5 very short steps of ice/rock leading to one final section of easy ice and some super easy 5th class climbing. We soloed this section but I would suggest roping up, it’s exposed and there’s avalanche potential.

Pitch 2/Money pitch: From the bolted belay climb/lower down a few feet to reach the thickest section of the ice flow. Climb thin 3+/4- to a detached curtain (pillar in fatter years?) and then to fatter 3/3+ ice above. There is a 40’ curtain of WI4+ that touches down on fatter years making the finish far more dramatic.

Pitch 3: From a large ledge with a huge boulder slung with tat, there’s probably another 100’ of interesting WI3+/4- that’s worth doing if you have time.

Rap with 2 ropes back down into the approach gully almost making it to Easy Gully. Don't bother trying to go back to the bolts.


Grand Illusion is located inside a huge crack/cave/chimney near the top of Easy Gully.


Screws. Stubbies. I carried a rock rack and it was not useful at all.

Photos of Grand Illusion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is either a stiff "approach" or a l...
BETA PHOTO: This is either a stiff "approach" or a l...
Rock Climbing Photo: above the initial business
above the initial business
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay for first (potentially second) pitch. There ...
Belay for first (potentially second) pitch. There ...

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