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Grand Illusion 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Bronaugh, Louis Petry, 1984
Page Views: 769
Submitted By: Adam Leedy on May 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This is the second to last dihedral to the right of the wall. The climb before Bloody Fingers. Fairly thin but good holds and nice stems on the faces. Cruxy bit is at the top pulling around the wide section to the anchors. A friend of mine put his body into the wide spot and had real trouble getting out. I stayed outside of it and clipping the anchors was no problem

Protection 

standard rack. Maybe a couple pieces in the orange TCU size


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By Casey the "Renaissance Man"
Oct 28, 2012

No longer fixed anchors, this route now has some glue-ins.
By Kat White
Apr 25, 2017

This route should have more stars. Excellent dihedral crack with a difficult move at the very top - more of a 5.8+ move though.

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