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Grand Falls Zawn

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American Beauty T 

Grand Falls Zawn Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 191'
Location: 51.18649, -4.6738 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 45
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Sep 30, 2013
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Description 

A big, atmospheric zawn in a remote location, with a 100m abseil approach to add to the commitment. There is a large sea cave at the bottom of the zawn, which could be explored at low tide (but then you'd have to climb back up the first 15m of greasy rock to get to your route). It is common for seals to shelter here, and in the zawn, they provide good company for the belayer!

The rock is quality Lundy granite, though owing to its low angle, perhaps a bit more vegetated than other areas. The must-do route is American Beauty (HVS 5a, 5.8), which takes a clean line up crack systems in the slab.

Getting There 

About 100m South of threequarter wall is a prominent outcrop at plateau level. Walk down the grassy slope directly below this outcrop for about 60m to large boulders that can be slung for the abseil. Take a long rope - it's almost 100m to the bottom!

An alternative approach can be made at low tide by scrambling/downclimbing the spur to the North of the zawn then walking along the zawn bed. This is described by the current guide book as particularly harrowing, and is infrequently used.

Climbing Season

For the South West area.

Weather station 13.9 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Grand Falls Zawn

American Beauty 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Grand Falls Zawn
The classic of the slab, big on adventure! This fine route follows crack systems up the back wall of Grand Falls Zawn in three pitches. P1, 30m. From the ledges, start up the second crack from the left. Pretty steady climbing up the broken crack system leads to a decent ledge with a large block on, which can be slung for an anchorP2, 50m. This is the big one! Continue up the thin crack off the left end of the belay ledge to a grassy ledge. Step right and make delicate moves up a thin crack and ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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