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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bard & Locke - 1976
Page Views: 9,168
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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belay knobs at end of traverse pitch

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is the obvious finish to OZ, but the FA team didn't climb it until a year later. Some have said that the rock is sketchy on this climb, but overall it is quite good and this shouldn't scare anyone away. The climbing on Gram is physical whereas the climbing on OZ is more technical -- a nice contrast and finish to the route.

After finishing the third pitch of OZ, continue as follows:

P4: Climb up off the belay through some very powerful laybacks and underclings to a stance. The climbing eases here until a bolted belay is reached below some hanging blocks. 5.10d.

P5: Runner your gear very well and still expect to deal with rope drag. Continue traversing under the roof with a few cruxy downclimbing sections of 5.10c or so. One can belay off of bad gear or at an uncomfortable stance, but it is perhaps better to turn the roof at it's end and continue to the top. Keep in mind this involves climbing a long passage of 5.5 knobs without much gear. An awesome, exposed conclusion to the climb. 5.10c.


Standard rack. Nice to have a #3 Camalot for the start.

Photos of Gram Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wyatt finds an "OK" hand jam on the firs...
Wyatt finds an "OK" hand jam on the firs...
Rock Climbing Photo: A belay at the end of the G.T. roof.
A belay at the end of the G.T. roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mayan on the Gram traverse.
Mayan on the Gram traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the second traverse pitch
Starting the second traverse pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Wyatt following the second traverse pitch
Wyatt following the second traverse pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: The Gram
The Gram
Rock Climbing Photo: toward the end of the traverse
toward the end of the traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Goldstein on the Gram Traverse
Dave Goldstein on the Gram Traverse

Comments on Gram Add Comment
Show which comments
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Jul 1, 2010

This climb is harder for the follower. The leader places gear before the hard parts and does them well protected. The follower has to clean the gear and then do the harder parts looking at a nice ol' swing.
By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Bishop
Aug 1, 2010

The death blocks above the belay are pretty scary
By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
Aug 6, 2010

P1. 3 inch was handy, used two. After the vertical crack above your head its only a couple moves to a good spot so just keep truckin! Belay is interesting since only one draw wants to load if the follower falls, so maybe put two on the right hanger. As well as one on the left. Solid climbing on good rock.

(rocks above anchor are freaky but seem ok. Only freaky because I watched literally a gigantic chunk come off above the Good book at curry village. It happened out of no where and so looking at this block kinda sketched me out but it was stuck on there tough.

P2. Climbing varies into some good face technique as well as crack. Two 10C areas that are delicate climbing.

P3. Finish up giant knobs to the nice ledge. There is a nice horizontal crack at the top to make a anchor with cams quickly and get the person who is ready to get out of that roof up there.

Consider finishing on Hobbit Book. Its a walk in the park after what you just did and the view is amazing at the summit.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Sep 27, 2010

Crux is above last OZ anchor (start of Gram). Although we came across a few loose blocks, most of the rock is solid and protects safely. Try to move fast before the pump catches up. Good rests between mostly 5.10 moves.

We did the traverse in two horizontal pitches and built a below at the end of the traverse for the final short 5.5 pitch to the top. Traverse can easily be done in one pitch though.
By Dan Carter
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jun 13, 2012

I think Gram to OZ is the best climb I've ever done. Seriously this thing has it all. The roof was so unique and spooky. I agree that following is a little harder or at least unnerving than leading. The first roof pitch is pretty physical with undercling laybacks and jams with thin feet. One or two #4 cams would be nice to protect the two small overhangs one pulls around. I grabbed one flake that felt hollow and quickly move off it. Overall the rock was good and gear plentiful. The second roof pitch also takes good gear but is more balancy and has good rests. One can build a comfortable and safe gear belay about 10 feet from the end of the roof. This makes the last knob pitch go smoothly. If you go up OZ one must do the Gram traverse.
By Crimper E6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Oct 18, 2012

hideous rope drag. This route really needs a rap station at the end of the traverse on the ledges out right.

The second pitch on oz, second bolt is nails to make the clip
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Oct 19, 2012

Totally weaksauce suggestion. Sounds like you need to work on your all around climbing and protection skills. I have climbed that route probably more than any other in the Meadows and never had unmanageable drag finishing the Gram. There's good gear (small stopper if I remember right) to be had before pulling the miniroof at the end of the traverse if you actually look for it. And don't forget to put a long sling on it, genius!
By mpech
Aug 16, 2015

Awesome route. Second pitch of gram felt very casual and non-physical (10a?) compared to the first.

No need to make an intermediate belay unless you really screw up the rope management.

A bolted anchor is available at the end of the climb to belay from-- a bit climber's right of the sea of knobs.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 23, 2016

Our party thought the crux of the first pitch was around the 1" crack that runs through the roof. The climbing above the OZ anchors just didn't seem that hard, more like watch your feet and grab the jugs and crimps.

The second pitch was much easier, but it was nice to have a pitch not as scrunched up and pumpy as the first.

We did a third pitch at the closer of the two suggested intermediate belays in the Supertopo. With some judicious slinging, rope drag was no problem. The walk off is fairly long, there's probably a good description of it somewhere. Some cool cliff features on the way and a bouldering field too.
By Max Rausch
From: Monterey, California
Aug 9, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I found the 10d crux not all that bad. The real crux for me was navigating through all the loose shit and holds marked with an 'X'. My partner found the gear belay at the end of the roof to be a bit too sketchy, and opted to run it out to the top with terrible rope drag. As mentioned above, a bolted belay at the end of the roof would make this climb much smoother!

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