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Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)

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All Cows Eat Grass S 
Altered Scale S 
Andromeda Strain T 
AWOL S 
C Sharp or B Flat S 
Camel Toe Jockey T 
Chunnel S 
Crazy Fingers S 
Dragonslayer S 
Fadda S 
Five Finger Discount T 
Gumby Land T 
Hard Left T,S 
Harder Than Your Husband T 
Hemisfear S 
Home Is Where the Heart Is T 
Jersey Connection S 
Jump for Joy S 
Just Duet S 
Kampsight S 
Ledger Line S 
Milkin' the Chicken T,S 
Motha T 
Pine S 
Pulling Pockets S 
Return of Chris Snyder, The S 
Ro Shamlo 
Ro Shampo S 
Roadside Attraction T 
Rosetta Phone Home 
Runnin Down a Dream T 
Scissors S 
Stay the Hand S 
Strevels Gets in Shape S 
Synchronicity T 
Tic-Tac-Toe S 
Trouble Clef S 
Up Yonder S 
Valor Over Discretion S 
Way Up Yonder S 
Wicked Games S 
Wild Gift S 
You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish S 

Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag) Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.7334, -83.6591 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 62,431
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 3, 2006  with updates from borealForest
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Eyeballing the finish holds of Ro Shampo. October ...

Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit MORE INFO >>>

Access Requirement and History 

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges.

Don't be selfish--get a permit or climb elsewhere.



In May 2011, after privilege abuse by climbers, Roadside was closed to all access. In March 2015, the area reopened as Graining Fork Nature Preserve (GFNP) with access limited to users obtaining a required daily permit and a suggested donation.

While obtaining the daily permit, it is suggested to make a small donation to show appreciation for the area being open and to help with costs associated with maintaining the preserve. If you have a problem with making a donation, consider that people routinely pay upwards of $10 for a movie at the theater and that only lasts two hours. Here, climbers get access to amazing routes for an entire day for $5 or $10 per person. What a deal!

Climbers should be on their utmost best behavior at GFNP. This includes not blasting music, packing your poop and toilet paper out, leashing dogs and being respectful of the area. Treat it like you would your own backyard.
Added on 5/4/2015 by Jason Halladay

Description 

Roadside could be called the flagship crag of the RRG. It boasts sport routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.12+. It has a high concentration of easier routes and a good concentration of 5.10 sport and 5.12 sport along a wonderfully pocketed south facing wall.

GFNP is privately owned by climbers and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.

Getting There 

Follow hwy 11 into Wolfe County. Look for a developed parking/picnic area on the right side of the road. The trail leading up to the wall is across the road from the parking area. Look for the brown "Graining Fork Nature Preserve" sign at the start of the trail. You did remember your daily permit, right? If not, The Zoo is a fun area on the same side of the highway as the parking and will likely be much less crowded.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.9 miles from here

43 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',10],['5.11',7],['5.12',10],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag):
Roadside Attraction   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
C Sharp or B Flat   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 60'   
Motha   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Ledger Line   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
All Cows Eat Grass   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 80'   
Valor Over Discretion   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Five Finger Discount   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Trouble Clef   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Kampsight   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 80'   
AWOL   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   
Andromeda Strain   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Fadda   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Crazy Fingers   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Pulling Pockets   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   
Dragonslayer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Synchronicity   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Up Yonder   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Return of Chris Snyder   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Ro Shampo   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)

Featured Route For Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling over the roof above the flake and into the...

The Return of Chris Snyder 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Graining Fork Nature Preser...
***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website. isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a per...[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

Photos of Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Be aware of what lurks in the holds on Just Duet
Be aware of what lurks in the holds on Just Duet
Rock Climbing Photo: On the 5.10 wall
On the 5.10 wall
Rock Climbing Photo: the first moves of Valor Over Discretion...
the first moves of Valor Over Discretion...
Rock Climbing Photo: Casey atop one of the routes on the far right wall...
Casey atop one of the routes on the far right wall...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers are on the route Runnin' Down a Dream (5....
BETA PHOTO: Climbers are on the route Runnin' Down a Dream (5....

Comments on Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag) Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 5, 2017
By Bobrunning Running
From: Madison, wi
Oct 31, 2010
Parking - latitude 37.73335 longitude 83.65913
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Nov 15, 2010
Really? Parking GPS?
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 24, 2011
redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic...

Roadside has been CLOSED due to poor behavior by climbers- please respect the closure and wait until it is open before returning!
By Craig Nelson
From: sioux city, iowa
Feb 8, 2012
Any rumors on when it will be reopening?
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Sep 18, 2012
Probably never as long as there are dummies still ticking routes on this site.
By Miguel S
Aug 23, 2013
Is Roadside open again? I am heading to the Red at the end of October (first time in 4 years) and a trip to the red is not complete without a run up roadside attraction.

Thanks!
By Dustin Stephens
Apr 18, 2014
No
By Graham Eddy
Sep 24, 2014
I am planning a trip to the Red in a few weeks (Mid October). I am trying to discern if roadside crag is still closed... can anyone tell me. Thanks!
By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Jan 5, 2015
Still closed as of 1/5/15
By A0hero
From: Detroit, MI
Apr 30, 2015
Reopened, but make sure to get a permit!!!
here:grainingfork.org/gate-access-p...
Or here (without donation):
grainingfork.org/reservations/
By Dustin Stephens
May 14, 2015
Please donate when you register to climb at Graining Fork!! The landowners are actively monitoring donations per climber, and a little bit goes a long way.
By Dan.r.murphy
Nov 17, 2015
Has it been hard to get a permit for roadside? Wondering how far ahead of time you need to get one and how much they are limiting the crowds?
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 17, 2015
We went on a Saturday in April this year and got our permits a week in advance. We hoped the permit system might limit the crowds but it was mighty damn busy (it was a Saturday after all so that makes sense). It's not clear to me if there's a daily limit or not.
By raoulkabob
Apr 8, 2016
What is slab wall??? It's closed tomorrow according to redriverclimbing but I can't find what routes are on this magical slab wall? Anyone know? Thanks!
By iclimegud
Apr 5, 2017
Went the last 2 weekends and groups are arriving with dogs and without permits. The property manager is making trips daily and kicking out those without a permit. They are not being rude about it, even suggesting the parties find a cell signal, get a permit, and come back the same day.

Please please please make the effort to get a permit. Not doing so will only cause access issues and make our community look bad.

grainingfork.org/newpermit/
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 5, 2017
iclimegud wrote:
Went the last 2 weekends and groups are arriving with dogs and without permits. The property manager is making trips daily and kicking out those without a permit. They are not being rude about it, even suggesting the parties find a cell signal, get a permit, and come back the same day.

Damn, that makes my blood boil. Simple, easy rules to follow for some great climbing and climbers can't even do that. Once again, climbers are proving they are their own worst enemies.

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