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Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock

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1. Practice Area aka "Bog Climbs" 
2. West (So West) Slabs & Area 
3. Table Rock & East Slabs Area 
4. The Eyebrow Area  
5. The Amphitheater 
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From MP's sister site:

Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.58979, -70.94674 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,514
Administrators: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Unassigned User on Jun 29, 2009
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: RW one pitch below the top of the "central sl...


This park has 700+ foot composite granite rock cliff separated by narrow tree ledges on its west side, called the Eyebrow. This cliff is closed to climbing. On the east side of the Notch are slabs and a steeper cliff called Table Rock, because of the look out point on the A.T. I went to the top of the slabs south of Table Rock, and bushwhacked uphill north to meet up with the Appalachian Trail. I haven't been to this area since 1982. I remember there being no natural trad. pro. sections to these east side slabs. These slabs other than Table Rock are similar to Webster Mt.-Crawford Notch N.H. slabs or with few to no arches. To protect these slabs would require a dozen bolts or so, at least. Much of the rock is coarse. It has white and brown rock diagonal bands (possibly Basalt)and some gray,(Whitehorse Mt. N.H. in likeness) smooth slab sections also. Southeast of these slabs deep in the woods is another continuous slab 300+ feat, without tree ledges. I haven't been there. Besides bushwhacking in Maine is serious, if you get lost and become disoriented you can stay lost forever (having a compass could be life saving).

The Notch is beautiful and also offers a variety of winter ice climbing. 80+ feet of hollow thin ice on the west side and thick (WI3,3+) 40+ feet of ice on the east side of the Notch. The thick stuff is practically on the road and has lots of ways up it. The hollow ice section has no pro and is steeper. This section may get thicker depending on yearly conditions. google images has excellent images of the Eyebrow. There are images of the notch on the web.

Getting There 

Google Map Quest or buy a map of Maine. It is Northeast of Bethel, Maine on 26. Bethel Maine is 26 miles East of Gorham N.H. via Route2. The Notch proper is about 12 miles north of Route 2 on Rt 26 headed towards Errol, NH.

GPS Position for this AREA is set for the AT Parking Lot.

There's much to do and see for the non-climber / non-hiker also; for example: Screw Auger Falls and the "Moose Cave".

The walk to the Eyebrow cliffs wasn't long, less than 1 mile from road's parking lot I believe.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 13.5 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock:
"Practice" Flows    WI3-4     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 75'   1. Practice Area aka "Bog C...
Old Speck Stream   WI2+     Ice, 1000'   2. West (So West) Slabs & A...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock

Featured Route For Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: "Practice Flows" - the more difficult fl...

"Practice" Flows WI3-4  Maine : Grafton Notch St. Park - Ic... : 1. Practice Area aka "Bog C...
A series of 4 to 6 flows, WI 2+ to WI 3, that one can stumble to from the car in a few steps! One slightly more difficult (3+ / 4 ?) flow up higher in the woods.The flows are on the SouthEast side of the road (regardless of what it says in "Northern New England Ice Climbs"!) and they do get the afternoon sun. Hence these are the first Grafton Notch climbs to "bake-out / melt out"....[more]   Browse More Classics in Maine

Photos of Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Slabs, high on the East Side of Notch
Rock Slabs, high on the East Side of Notch
Rock Climbing Photo: Grafton on google mapst
Grafton on google mapst
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Speck trail map
Old Speck trail map
Rock Climbing Photo: Pic says it all
BETA PHOTO: Pic says it all

Comments on Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009
Eyebrow has some protected plant species ?
By bradley white
From: Bend
Oct 17, 2016
I submitted this in 2009 and the routes except the stream. It still in my authorship. The photos are excellent. If unauthorized is elsewhere as me... That's sad.

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