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Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock

Select Area...
1. Practice Area aka "Bog Climbs" 
2. West (So West) Slabs & Area 
3. Table Rock & East Slabs Area 
4. The Eyebrow Area  
5. The Amphitheater 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site:

Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.58979, -70.94674 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,459
Administrators: Ladd, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Unassigned User on Jun 29, 2009
Forecast:
Washington's Birthday

25° | 2°
Tuesday

34° | 23°
Wednesday

38° | 32°
Thursday

43° | 27°
Friday

34° | 27°
Saturday

38° | 18°
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BETA PHOTO: RW one pitch below the top of the "central sl...

Description 

This park has 700+ foot composite granite rock cliff separated by narrow tree ledges on its west side, called the Eyebrow. This cliff is closed to climbing. On the east side of the Notch are slabs and a steeper cliff called Table Rock, because of the look out point on the A.T. I went to the top of the slabs south of Table Rock, and bushwhacked uphill north to meet up with the Appalachian Trail. I haven't been to this area since 1982. I remember there being no natural trad. pro. sections to these east side slabs. These slabs other than Table Rock are similar to Webster Mt.-Crawford Notch N.H. slabs or with few to no arches. To protect these slabs would require a dozen bolts or so, at least. Much of the rock is coarse. It has white and brown rock diagonal bands (possibly Basalt)and some gray,(Whitehorse Mt. N.H. in likeness) smooth slab sections also. Southeast of these slabs deep in the woods is another continuous slab 300+ feat, without tree ledges. I haven't been there. Besides bushwhacking in Maine is serious, if you get lost and become disoriented you can stay lost forever (having a compass could be life saving).

The Notch is beautiful and also offers a variety of winter ice climbing. 80+ feet of hollow thin ice on the west side and thick (WI3,3+) 40+ feet of ice on the east side of the Notch. The thick stuff is practically on the road and has lots of ways up it. The hollow ice section has no pro and is steeper. This section may get thicker depending on yearly conditions. google images has excellent images of the Eyebrow. There are images of the notch on the web.

Getting There 

Google Map Quest or buy a map of Maine. It is Northeast of Bethel, Maine on 26. Bethel Maine is 26 miles East of Gorham N.H. via Route2. The Notch proper is about 12 miles north of Route 2 on Rt 26 headed towards Errol, NH.

GPS Position for this AREA is set for the AT Parking Lot.

There's much to do and see for the non-climber / non-hiker also; for example: Screw Auger Falls and the "Moose Cave".

The walk to the Eyebrow cliffs wasn't long, less than 1 mile from road's parking lot I believe.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 13.5 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock:
"Practice" Flows    WI3-4     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 75'   1. Practice Area aka "Bog C...
Old Speck Stream   WI2+     Ice, 1000'   2. West (So West) Slabs & A...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock

Featured Route For Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Slabs/Slides on West Side of the Notch

Middle Slab WI2-3  Maine : Grafton Notch St. Park - Ic... : 2. West (So West) Slabs & A...
The middle slab of the three, connected, "Willies Slide" type slabs. We climbed the right side of the flow in four (4) or five (5) pitches depending on your pitch length. Belays can be off of trees in the upper section....[more]   Browse More Classics in Maine

Photos of Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Slabs, high on the East Side of Notch
Rock Slabs, high on the East Side of Notch
Rock Climbing Photo: Grafton on google mapst
Grafton on google mapst
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Speck trail map
Old Speck trail map
Rock Climbing Photo: Pic says it all
BETA PHOTO: Pic says it all

Comments on Grafton Notch St. Park - Ice&Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009
Eyebrow has some protected plant species ?
By bradley white
From: Bend
Oct 17, 2016
I submitted this in 2009 and the routes except the stream. It still in my authorship. The photos are excellent. If unauthorized is elsewhere as me... That's sad.