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Higher Education Ridge, West Face
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Dweeb, The T 
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Friends in Low Places T 
Grading on a Curve T 
Graduate, The S 
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Grading on a Curve 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: JS, John Fowler, May 2017
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 114
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jul 4, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Allen in the business.

Description 

Grading on a Curve is the longest route on Higher Education Ridge, and if it weren’t for an easy section in the middle and some suspect rock at top, would warrant three stars. (Yeah, I gave it three stars so you might consider trying it.) Climb Academia Nut’s hand crack to its top then stretch right to clip the first bolt. Puzzle through the moves (there’s a reason the bolt is where it is) to get established at the right edge of an obvious horizontal crack, get in a good cam, then climb more or less straight up past 8 more bolts to the top of the ridge. The horizontal crack sometimes seeps and may be frequented by wasps, but other than using it for pro, it is completely avoided -- at least if you do it the "right" way.

Location 

See Academia Nut.

Protection 

Draws and two to three hand-sized cams (Nos. 2-3 Camalots) should do it.


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By tenesmus
Aug 21, 2017

The grading curve depends greatly on your ability to read BCC rock.
Sooo many holds but you have to figure out which ones are trick questions and which ones are crimp-jugs. I vote for no tick marks to keep the grade honest.

This is a 3-star climb. Don't blow the bonus question crux at the end. Your belayer won't be able to see you but will definitely need to keep slack to a minimum as you go for the finish. Its safe so plan out a soft catch but small belay loop to ease the anxiety of the leader.

If you're a chicken like me, you can also use a #3 high in the initial handcrack, then back clean it after you clip the first bolt. Finally, traversing near the handcrack to get to the second bolt is unique for BCC and fun for all of the three or four ways you could do it.

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