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YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Jerry Roberts
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: yevquest on Jan 6, 2012

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Wandering left from the main approach trail at T-Wall, away from the crowds and noise, you eventually arrive at the scenic and beautiful Paradise Falls area. This section of the cliff is loaded with great sport routes featuring many different styles of climbing. Perhaps the most unique is Grace, a route that requires as much footwork and body tension as it does finger strength.

Stick clip the first bolt and then start a good bit down and right. Follow and obvious system of goods hands and poor feet that lead back to the first bolt. This is a little scary your first time as falling on the first few moves would surely involve hitting something hard but not to worry, it's not very difficult. A hardish boulder problem at the second bolt leads to a great rest and easy climbing that ends underneath a small roof below an obvious stem box. The difficulty starts again with fancy footwork and cool palming in the box, leading to another bolt. The next twenty feet are the crux, requiring some more nimble footwork and long reaches between less than optimal holds. A good square jug and a welcome bolt mark the end of the difficulty. A fun 5.11 roof provides some icing on the cake. Try not to fall up here as a Sweetgum tree could provide unwanted friction.


On the left side of the Paradise Falls amphitheater, one route route left of the Stinger Arete.


Eight bolts and anchors

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