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Grace Under Pressure 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joy Cox , Seth Tart
Season: Winter
Page Views: 883
Submitted By: S Tart on Jan 23, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Mackenzie soaking up the exposure on Grace Under P...

Description 

This route is the best warm up here and oh so good. It warms you up as you go, getting harder and steeper from bottom to top on incredible stone.

This is a mixed route, with the first half being gear and significantly easier than the second half. The movement on this route is incredibly esthetic, on really cool holds.

Climb to the bottom of a 3' roof and get a 1.5" cam on a long runner in a deep slot under the roof. Pull right around the roof and climb 30' of fun climbing to a perch on the edge of the arete. Enter the business and climb through two technical overhangs and the crux before the anchors.

Note: If the climber falls in the crux above the forth bolt, they should be allowed to fall on a touch of slack to avoid being whipped into the ledge out right.


Location 

20' right of Deceivious, around the arete.
This route climbs the right side of the arete at the base of the cliff.
You can either walk straight up to this climb from the trail, just before it loops around the arete or from the base of Decievious, walk down and around the base of the arete to a small clearing.

Protection 

Gear, bolts and anchors. Bring a couple 1/2" cams, 1", 1.5" and a 2" cam and you should be fine. One bigger cam if you really want to plug stuff in.


Photos of Grace Under Pressure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dennis (Stud Bolt) Buice.  :)
Dennis (Stud Bolt) Buice. :)
Rock Climbing Photo: Dennis Buice milking the last rest before the busi...
Dennis Buice milking the last rest before the busi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dennis Buice in the first steep section.
Dennis Buice in the first steep section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Joy Cox on her FA of Grace Under Pressure
Joy Cox on her FA of Grace Under Pressure

Comments on Grace Under Pressure Add Comment
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By Neil Rankin
From: Winston-Salem, NC
May 23, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is forced. In reality it's a 5.9 that is bolted to try and force you to climb 5.10. The natural, more obvious, more aesthetic feature is to the climber's right of the upper bolts. Twice I pulled over a couple bulges on obvious holds only to find a bolt 6 feet to my left. I ended up skipping 2 bolts and protected one of these sections with a cam.
By S Tart
Nov 7, 2015

Neil, Sorry you didn't enjoy the route. If you had just asked I could have told you that was a natural finish to Grace Under Pressure which goes up the 'obviously' featured right side of the arete vs the fixed line on the steeper and sheer left side. That is also a shared finish to the all trad route on that same side. Two different routes, two different sides. So many lines at Cooks are unlisted. I will try to address some of that.

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