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Grab em in Da Biscuits S 
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Partizan, The S 
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Grab em in Da Biscuits 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eden Masters, Scott Ayers 1991
Page Views: 1,292
Submitted By: Vincent Greene on Sep 26, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Look for a pair of bolted lines on the left side of a chimney on the Blazing Fin. Grab em in Da Biscuits is the left hand line. Stick to the left and follow the bolts to the chains. Crux is at a roof/bulge a little less than half way up. Lower/Rap down the face to avoid a serious pendulum.


bolts (approx 7 or 8) and chain anchors.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 22, 2017
By James DeRoussel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 31, 2012

The first bolt on this line is poorly placed, at 20' of the deck. While the climbing to get there is moderate, the consequences of a fall here are far from negligible. I don't understand bolting like this; what's the point of bolting a route if you have to risk a nasty fall to get on it?
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jul 31, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Otherwise known as "ego bolting".

P.S Maybe "ego bolting" is a bit harsh, considering the historical context, but I just think a beginner sport route should be well-protected.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 2, 2012

In this case however this route was done when you had to be able to third class 20 feet off the ground before the first bolt. This is a good example of old school sport bolting. This is why there are hundreds of "climbers" now instead of thirty or forty as there were back then. With bolts every six feet the cliffs have been opened to all but the most fearful.

Putting up routes like this these days could be called "ego bolting". However if this grade is at your limit and you do it ground up then kudos to you.
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Aug 2, 2012

Its been years since I've been on this route, but I thought the route to the right of it had a lower first bolt. I thought the intent was that you start on that route, clip it's first bolt, then traverse left.

I thought both of those routes had fairly close bolts, and the natural line seemed to be to start both in the same place.

edit: I checked the comments on the route to the right, Makin' muffins, also has comments about a high first bolt, so maybe I can't remember very well.

Also, the last time I was on Party pooters (years ago), I noticed the first bolt had been chopped. Is it possible the first bolt was chopped on these as well?
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 19, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Tell us what you really think Eric lol

Calling it third class is quite a stretch, though it may feel that way to you. There's a couple of 5.8 moves near the ground, then a section of very easy 5th class, then another 5.7ish move to get into position to clip the bolt. If you don't believe me, look at the comments on the other sister route from people who climb at a level where they can better tell the difference between 3rd/4th class and easy 5th class.

But regardless of your opinion of who's afraid and who's not afraid, and who's a "real" climber and who isn't, it would be nice if the new guidebook had enough information to prevent people who don't want to deal with the runout from wasting their time hiking out there.

Last time I went there, there was a Mom and her two kids who had obviously been staring at the bottom of this route for quite some time, and were just getting ready to leave when I showed up to clip the first bolt for them. After that, her son was able to practice some leading on the safer part of the route.

Not necessarily a PG-13 rating, which would be a nightmare to have to deal with for thousands of routes (that's what we have MP for), but a short note like "high first bolt" or "20 feet to first bolt".
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 20, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Sent this e-mail to Scott this morning, worth a shot anyway.

"Hey Scott,

Would you consider adding a bolt to the (shared) start of these routes?

That would make for two routes out of hundreds at Windy Point that beginners could safely practice leading on.

Hope all is well,

By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 22, 2016

Added a 3 or 4 bolt 10+ direct start to this route while ago. Pretty fun and powerful. Starts about 15-20 feet down gully from 96 Degrees in the Shade.
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 22, 2016

Eric, Two of us did this yesterday. Unfortunately it's over too soon. Fun climbing though.
By Nick Henscheid
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 21, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Since this route traverses across the face quite a bit, falling while clipping any of the bolts would likely make for a pretty uncomfortable ride. That combined with the high first bolt (not as scary as it looks) means this would not be recommended for a newer leader. Also, note that one of the bolts (at the small roof about 3/4 the way up) is missing its hanger as of today. The move around the roof is fairly easy but you're a bit above the last bolt. You could place a finger sized cam if you wanted, but honestly if you made it to the first bolt, you'll be fine.
By Bryanz
From: Arizona
Apr 9, 2017

Previously mentioned bolt 3/4 up by the roof is there but without hanger and bolt is smashed. A fall would be safe but possibly long.
By Mike Kane
From: Tucson, AZ
May 22, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Some good samaritan beat me to the punch and this route is back in prime condition. Thank you

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