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Gothic Groove 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Benandstuff on Mar 14, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: View from the base


This route, like many other routes on the South Side, takes the easy 5.1 slab 300 feet to a large ledge. The third 5.8+ pitch is the real meat of the climb, and follows a gorgeous black water groove to the anchors.

While you are up on the ledge there are several other climbs of varying difficulty that start their crux pitches there as well.


You can see the water groove from the base, it makes a plumb line down to the upper ledge. Take whatever route to get up there.

To descend, there are bolted anchors to rap the climb in three raps. You will need double ropes or a tag line for the bottom two raps.


Pitches 1+2: Whatever.
Pitch 3: A bit spicy. One bolt at 30 ft and a second at 50 ft protect the crux area. There also might be good gear in the flake in the first 10-15 ft, but it isn't of much use.

Photos of Gothic Groove Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the big ledge.
BETA PHOTO: View from the big ledge.

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