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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mike Strassman & Eric Rhicard 1989
Page Views: 8,266
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006

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Higher up on a terrific line. Photo, R. Walling


This is the beautiful and prominent arete of the tower. It is tricky and sustained right from the start. A stick clip is a good idea if you're not solid in the grade (or even if you are). The rock is slick and somewhat polished making the small footholds tricky. Figuring out when to switch sides of the arete is important. At the 6th bolt things ease a bit leading to the spicey but easy run to the anchors. A definite must do classic.


8 quickdraws, anchors, stick clip (optional)

Photos of Gorgeous Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gorgeous Tower North West face topo
BETA PHOTO: Gorgeous Tower North West face topo
Rock Climbing Photo: obvious line but very good.
BETA PHOTO: obvious line but very good.
Rock Climbing Photo: An absolutely amazing route.
An absolutely amazing route.
Rock Climbing Photo: gorgeous from any angle indeed
gorgeous from any angle indeed
Rock Climbing Photo: this is one of the best aretes ive ever pulled
this is one of the best aretes ive ever pulled
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Foltz on Gorgeous 5.10a
Eric Foltz on Gorgeous 5.10a

Comments on Gorgeous Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 17, 2015
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 6, 2007

.10b now? sounds right, felt like a sandbag at 10a...
By 426
Mar 26, 2007

I agree, may have even been 9 in the '90 guidebook.

Stick clip is a great idea if yer just breakin in to the grade (lead).
By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 25, 2007

My favorite line in the Gorge...a very fun route indeed. The guidebook I have lists it at 5.10a which felt about right. (Hey, if a punter like me can lead it, it can't be all that hard, right?) I had good beta though--might feel like 10b if you're doing a true on-sight.
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Oct 1, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

HAAAA!! Sanbdbagged? It's sustained 5.9 climbing at its finest. .10b
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 28, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Wow, I never noticed the FA team before. Ayers, Strassman and EFR?
By Zachary
Jul 10, 2009

When I was there this past week it appears the last bolt to the anchors is no longer there, making a nice little 20 foot runout to the anchors. Great climb!
By Euan Cameron
From: Mammoth Lakes
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A great climb. The difficulties are definitely in the first 30ft, but the climbing after that remains engaging. The run out to the anchors would seem long if you are feeling pumped.
By Owen McGrath
Apr 29, 2011

Really beautiful climb. Pretty slick down low, and then interesting as it moves back and fourth over the arrete a few times. This being at my upper limits on lead, the runout at the end (20'?) raised my pulse a bit...
Jul 26, 2012

awesome arete.....saw this one and had to do it. great climb.......classic. did a nice 11 something or other just to the right of it also that i remember being mixed pro (or i was just being a wuss). and as the front page for the gorge says those nettles. i never wear shorts and i found out what they were first time i decided to.....damn calves stinging for hours.
By B.S. Luther
From: Yorba Linda, CA
Sep 21, 2013

Awesome arete, polished probably because it's so awesome which adds a dimension, if I remember correctly. I climbed this a couple years ago but the comments reminded me of the gap between the last bolt and the anchors.. I just remember thinking, "those bastards" upon discovering there was no bolt where I expected.. haha, a good memory though and still safe if scary (I scare easy though). Definitely go for the onsight if you have the chance, beta is a ton of fun as you meander up the arete looking for the next moves.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The 5th or 6th bolt is crazy bent. Can't imagine how it could get so f'ed up.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Oct 23, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

My buddy Dan replaced the F'ed up 5th bolt today.
By Simon W
From: Nowhere Land
Jan 17, 2015

Way to go Dan! That bolt was worked!! Still clippable, but not exactly confidence inspiring... Someone was probably around the corner and fell on it or something =/

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