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Gore Thumb Traverse T 

Gore Thumb Traverse 

YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.0 French: 2- Ewbanks: 4 UIAA: I ZA: 6 British: MM 1c [details]
FA: M. Goat
Season: Summer
Page Views: 113
Submitted By: Ryan Marsters on Jan 20, 2017

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Towers between Guyselman and Gore Thumb. Bypass ge...


The route traverses Peak N, Guyselman, The Gore Thumb, and Peak L. Peak L is a premier and remote prize of the Gore. The Gore Thumb is a distinguished blocky tower rising next to it.

The scramble is typical of the Gore - stay as proper as you can, and bypass on the west side as necessary to keep the difficulty at a desired level. Rare weaving to the east side and backtracking north before diving west might be required too. Practically, I'd rate it 5.0 using ropeless alpine sense, avoiding too much drop, and using west-side bypasses. With a rope, expect rappels north to south and climbs south to north. Personally, I think the alpine route-finding challenge is more engaging than leaving webbing behind to rappel.

The crux is weaving the towers between Guyselman and Peak L while tagging Gore Thumb en route.



Approaches include:
1. A long hike to Upper Slate via Brush Creek or Slate. This is best to overnight, and I've gotta warn it is brutal. Follow the standard 3rd/4th class scramble up L.
2. From Brush Creek (the last 2 miles is 4WD), follow the trail up towards Lost Lake Reservoir, and start bushwhacking up the drainage entering the basin NE of Guyselman. Gain Guyselman's E. Ridge via a north-facing talus gully. Go out-and-back L and the Thumb. Continue north over Peak N and over Peak O. Do a long talus descent back towards Lost Lake.


A 30m rope and alpine rack are optional. Good route-finding can reduce the need.

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