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Gordon's Hangover 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Black & Gibbs '74
Page Views: 15,390
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Apr 5, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (240)
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Andrew pulling through the first crux on Gordon's ...

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Super classic. There are two ways to approach the upper section. I am describing the original start, which takes the most direct line. This way also makes the route best done as one long pitch.

Start in the huge dihedral downhill from The Green Adjective. This is also the same start as Touch Up and Perhaps.

Climb the dihedral, which is very moderate for the first fifty feet or so. Continue up through slightly increased difficulty to a big undercling flake.

Traverse left with powerful liebacks (first 5.9+ crux, not as hard as it looks), which quickly gets to the second crux, a hand crack through a bulge. The hand crack has bomber hands, but is awkward for the feet.

Finally, traverse right ten feet on good holds to the anchor. Make sure to protect the second through all the traverses.

A second option exists for this route which is also really good. Climb the 1st pitch of Perhaps and stop at the belay anchor. Begin here up Gordon's Hangover by climbing the left-most dihedral which leads into the over-hanging flake. Another great option and a different variation which is a more interesting start IMO.


Standard rack. This is a long pitch, so bring quite a bit of gear. A #3 camalot is good for the undercling traverse, and save a #2 camalot size for the crux bulging hand crack.


Double-rope rap directly to the ground. Alternatively, single rope rap to the fixed anchors on Perhaps, then one more single rope rap to the ground.

Photos of Gordon's Hangover Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the undercling flake, Gordon's Hangove...
Approaching the undercling flake, Gordon's Hangove...
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the overhang.
Entering the overhang.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gordon's Hangover
Gordon's Hangover
Rock Climbing Photo: Gordons Hangover flake
Gordons Hangover flake
Rock Climbing Photo: Gordo's original
Gordo's original
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the massive dihedral on Gordon's Hangover...
Climbing the massive dihedral on Gordon's Hangover...
Rock Climbing Photo: SO soliiiiiid
SO soliiiiiid
Rock Climbing Photo: Kenton following Gordon's Hangover
Kenton following Gordon's Hangover
Rock Climbing Photo: butt shot on Gordon's
butt shot on Gordon's
Rock Climbing Photo: The hangover part
The hangover part
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying the steep hands
Belaying the steep hands
Rock Climbing Photo: Thrilling flake
Thrilling flake
Rock Climbing Photo: Gordons
Rock Climbing Photo: Powering through the flake.
Powering through the flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Perhaps, Gordon's Hangover, Touch Up
BETA PHOTO: Perhaps, Gordon's Hangover, Touch Up

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 21, 2017
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 24, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The other way to start Gordon's Hangover is to do the 1st pitch of Perhaps and then come up the crack to the main part of Gordon's. Again, another great climb with committment. The initial crux (the bulgy layback) looks harder than it is, and is way intimidating. However, as Peter says, the bulging hand crack is tough. My partner could not do it easily.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

good line. a little crumbly about mid way up. consider pro right after the bulge for the follower. how about that step across to the anchor!
By Lee Gitlin
Sep 26, 2006

Fabulous route. We did it as one pitch, although rope drag can be an issue. The route starts out easy, then gets progressively more difficult all the way to the anchors. The cruxes first feature a massive flake requiring sidepulling and high stepping, followed by a steep fist crack (I had to step out onto the face at right to finish). In all, worthy of a 4-star rating.

If this was the only route available, it would still be worth the boulder hopping slog.
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 27, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Having climbed both variations of Gordon's, the Original long one pitch version is the best, if rope drag can be controlled. That is why I knocked this version down to three stars...not as sustained and fun.
By Wally29
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 16, 2006

Pretty mellow until intimidating undercling traverse, but good feet and bomber pro. Hand crack crux is akward on the feet and requires some commitment. Protect second for traverse to anchors.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Aug 7, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If touch up is a 5.9+ than Gordons Hangover is a 5.10- or maybe a 10a, I'm not sure of the difference! Great crack with some awesome moves. The undercling traverse is sweet and the hand jam on the bulge above is difficult if your not a hand jamming expert, especially because of the awkward feet. As 1 pitch it is long and excellent!

  • EDIT: Ok so after talking to tenesmus I thought I should add this disclaimer: The crux on this climb will feel harder if you are not super solid with hand jam technique, otherwise it does seem to fall in the 9+ category along with it's neighbor "Touch Up"

  • Edit 2: Even after being a ton better at jams the bulge is still hard. being taller would help a ton!
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I'm good at hand jamming and not good at face climbing. To me, Gordon's felt like 5.9 only because of the traverse, and the upper part felt fairly easy. Touch Up felt like 5.10. Go figure.
By Skyler Penrod
Oct 14, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

All I can say is slings! I ran out at just under the flake and the rope drag became atrocious. Even clipping the gear in the hand crack was difficult. Sweet climb though a definite must do.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
May 24, 2009

If you happen to drag a #4 Camalot along with you, you can get rid of it at the top of the "undercling flake." That way your second has to haul it through the crux :-)
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 22, 2009

The long one pitch version is great but the climbing getting to the flake on the two pitch version is very good too. Plus the first pitch of Perhaps is a great lead for a beginning trad leader. If you do as one pitch - clip everything long up to the under-cling if possible.
By Tradiban
Nov 13, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Absolute classic. Remember some slings for the undercling crux. I tried to jam the crux crack but laying back with high feet seemed best. Enjoy!
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Feb 11, 2012

Watch rope drag coming out of the overhang! While you might think the first overhang is the crux, it's not. Put decent runners on it or you'll regret it 10 feet later.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Super Classic... Hand Jam or flail.

Watched someone blow a #2 cam and rip the flake/jug about 2/3's the way up Gordon's Direct. The toaster sized block almost crushed his belayer and another party on the deck... sketchy.
By sammiller Miller
From: park city
Jul 29, 2012

I cannot believe how incredible this climb was! and how secure I actually felt! Such a wonderful climb!!!
By Ryan s Nelson
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Jun 5, 2014

Just climbed this one today and had a few thoughts. First off this is a very neat climb with moves/characteristics I've not seen elsewhere that make the climb (two bulges were very cool). Second, the two route options do serve a purpose, the firing up and doing it as one pitch makes for a very long and physical climb. The pitching it out (using the chains at P1 of Perhaps)allows for a slightly different line with neat moves with greater variety than the single pitch line. Either way you choose will have a benefit and will be fun. For the weaker folk sucking air throughout the climb (such as myself) the two pitch variation might be a nice option. Also, rapping back to the anchors of the perhaps P1 belay puts you in line for a great link up for P2 of perhaps and the green adj. if you're looking for more fun.

For those just breaking into routes in the 9+ category, I agree that the second bulging hand crack is pretty physical and lacks good feet (tough to jam, lacking feet exterior to the crack till higher position is gained. Very well protected and can be sewn up as much as you can load your gear loops up with. Have at it!
By LCC-Climber
Apr 23, 2015

Finally got the clean lead on this one, it's had my number for a few years. The crux for me was definitely the undercling flake. I thought the second crux was bomber jams for both hands and feet, well protected, and saaaaweet!!!
By JackCrockett
Aug 25, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The flake traverse was pretty easy I found by committing to the high feet on the ledge to the left. The pull through the bulge above was somewhat awkward but not to bad if committed.

The gear throughout the hole climb was stellar, use lots of runners. I wished I had saved a double length to sling the pillar just before the traverse.
By Jeremy Polk
From: Sandy, UT
Apr 11, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you like hand jams, you'll probably like this route. Crux for me was pulling through the bulge.
By grog m aka Greg McKee
Jul 21, 2017

I don't understand the anchor placement? Why is it way off to the right instead of logically directly above the climb? It makes cleaning it almost impossible if your second can't get up the climb. The traverse was cool, but the anchor should be to the left of the traverse.

Otherwise classic/awesome climb. Just annoying to clean.
By zoso
Jul 21, 2017

The anchor serves more than one route.

Also, it's outside. On real rock.

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