REI Community
Green Adjective Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After The Fall T 
All Chalk And No Action S 
Badlands S 
Beaked Whale T 
Beastie Boys T 
Creep Show T 
Dawdling Pigalottos T 
Divine Intervention 
Eve Traverse, The T 
Fallen Arches T 
Fallen Arches Approach T 
Fourth and Inches T 
Golden Showers T 
Goodro's Nightmare T 
Gordon's Direct T,TR 
Gordon's Hangover T 
Green Adjective, The T 
Hem Line T 
Holy Ghost T 
Last First Crack T,TR 
Looney Tunes T 
Lucid Dreaming T 
MA 1 T 
Meat Puppets S 
Mother of Pearl T 
Orange Crush S 
Perhaps T 
Perhaps Direct T,TR 
Perhaps Not T 
Pill Billy T 
Pins, Bashies, Matches and Beer T 
Prepositional Phrase S 
Sinsemilla Crack T 
St. Alphonso's Pancake Breakfast T 
Stitches T 
Stormy Resurrection T 
Stranger Than Friction S 
Subordinate Claws TR 
Surprise Ending T,S 
This Is Almost the Place T 
Touch Up T 
Trinity Right T 
Unreliable T 
Wheeler Route T 
Wheels on Fire T 
Wheels on Fire Direct T 
Why Me? T 

Gordon's Direct 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers, late 80's
Page Views: 4,440
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 11, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Working the crux sequence on Gordon's Direct.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Just right of the flake on Gordon's Hangover is a seam (thin crack) that works to the chains. A reachy initial move leads to thin fingers and good feet, then right at the bolt, one must reach again. Well protected crux move.


1 bolt on the route, some small nuts, and a couple of medium cams. Plus, whatever you will need to get to the start as it shares a lot with Gordon's Hangover.

Photos of Gordon's Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Onsight
Rock Climbing Photo: Gordon's Direct Sept 2016
Gordon's Direct Sept 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top
Near the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Miller gettin' an early March lap on Gordon's...
Greg Miller gettin' an early March lap on Gordon's...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gordon's Direct
Gordon's Direct

Comments on Gordon's Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 17, 2017
By Scott McLeod
Mar 12, 2007

OK, first of all, figuring this out is part of the challenge, excitement, and fun, so the above route description has a little too much beta in my opinion. Beta is best included in the comments sections, and even better if it has a **BETA** type warning.

But that aside, I am 5'6", and can do all of these moves. It is exciting and at times reachy, but never height dependent.
By tenesmus
Jun 19, 2007

Just did this again today and I gotta say you can sew it up really well. Super fun climbing but I don't know where its R? Scott's right about the over-beta in the description.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 6, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Wow, great route. Airy exposure as you're working the thin locks with 140' or so of rope out beneath you. Couldn't figure out the top moves so I blew the onsight, but I think I know what to do now, looking forward to getting back on it. There seemed to be a space where there wasn't good pro, pretty much where Ruckmans marked 5.9R on the topo, or maybe they're worried about swinging into the dihedral or something? It doesn't seem to deserve an R rating, especially by LCC standards! Classy variation, too bad you've got to miss out on the lieback flake and upper handcrack on Gordon's to do it.
By Lizzy Scully
From: Lyons, Colorado
Sep 20, 2007

Hmm, well, I think perhaps it could have R potential if you are not dialed into placing gear. It's certainly not an 11b I'd recommend to a beginning 5.11 leader. However, I did find plenty of gear placements that I more or less felt comfortable with.

I didn't feel it was height dependent. I am short.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Mar 30, 2008

First ascent was by Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers. Sometime in the late '80s
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Dec 19, 2008

Agreed with the "R" rating thing...It is not a REAL "R" if you have the gear dialed. It is a good idea to put it all together on TR after doing Gordon's Hangover. Then go for the redpoint send.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 16, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

How did this get an R rating? Lots of good gear. Great route with a totally well protected final crux
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jun 24, 2011

Agree with Tim. Bomber micronut placement right off the pillar then tricky but adequate gear throughout with good stances. The end is great, standing on a small foothold to reach way out left to a jug with the bolt a decent ways below. Fun! Not R.
By wasatch boy
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

Got this one after a few TR tries and 2 lead attempts. The climbing is great, but hard to appreciate while climbing thin edges. But it's all there. Really, this route protects best with small to mid sized stoppers, maybe a cam at the top. Most cams placed would have to be small and would most likely just rip out or break the lip off the edge of the crack. Climb to the good stances and place.
By choppinBolts
Sep 11, 2014

Would be cool to climb this without the bolt, heady and awesome maybe.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 17, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Try it and report back. Skipping the bolt isn't too hard to do... Much harder than just talking about it though.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Oct 15, 2014

Haha, yeah, that damn Steve Hong, wussing out and adding bolts to everything. Guess he was too weak to be up for heady and awesome. I sure hope he did something else in his climbing career to make up for this.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jan 7, 2015

This is a really good route. Don't worry about the 5.9R section. It's straightforward and "juggy" compared to nearly all the other 5.9s in the immediate vicinity.


The crux isn't the reach, but rather, getting to it. Two falls at this point. A nice clean ride into space!
By stj
Mar 18, 2016

A historical note about the bolt and the R rating:

The bolt was added in the early 90's at least 7 years after the FFA, replacing 2 fixed pins that had been there for years before the FFA. The FA of this route was in 1974 by Don Black and Pete Gibbs, at F7 A3. The bolt replaced the fixed pins after one of them failed.

The 5.9R move off the pedestal used to be harder to protect. The beta I got when I first led it in 1996 was: slot in a #0 RP with a #1 RP nested next to it. I went and bought a #0 RP just for this route, it's rated for aid only. The #0 was pretty solid, the #1 was lame but the idea was that maybe the #1 would take some weight and block the #0 from popping out. As these pieces were above your head when pulling the tricky move, it didn't feel dangerous as long as you had the #0. Anything bigger would hang halfway out and didn't inspire confidence. Without that microgear, a fall would send you swinging dangerously back into the pedestal.

Around '98, one of my partners was belaying somebody else up there. I guess he didn't have a tiny RP (who carries a #0 anyway?). He yelled down, "This is bullshit!" and grabbed his nut tool and bashed out the slot; now it takes slightly bigger, better pro.
By Ben Ricketts
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 17, 2017

Thanks for the historical note stj. I've always wondered about that bolt.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About