REI Community

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bill, The T 
Chung King Corner T 
Credibility Gap T 
Death Warmed Over S 
Devil's Pitchfork, The T 
Glide Path T 
Golden Egg, The S 
Goosed But Smilin' T 
Incubator, The 
Morgue, The S 
Scrambled Egg S 
Squeezing The Lemmon S 
Visitors, The S 
Yuck Crack S 
Zombie Flanders S 

Goosehead Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 32.37483, -110.70448 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,403
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: zach on May 30, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Solo Aiding "The Bill" on 4/17/10


40-90 foot climbs with pretty good exposure. Right next to the road.

Getting There 

One mile past the Windy Point vista. Easy to find, looks like a goose's head.

Climbing Season

For the 5 - Windy Ridge area.

Weather station 3.0 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Goosehead

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Goosehead:
The Golden Egg   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Chung King Corner   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Credibility Gap   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Goosed But Smilin'   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Glide Path   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Zombie Flanders   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 30'   
Death Warmed Over   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Goosehead

Featured Route For Goosehead
Rock Climbing Photo: Ye

The Devil's Pitchfork 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Goosehead
An old skool underground route that doesn't see much traffic. This route is a little test piece for the climber who is looking for something different on the Lemmon.Layback (crux) the slabby flake with decent foot holds and make some bold moves to a chicken flake where you can whip out the cam ol western style and jam her in quick. After you have one or two good cams in, make tricky moves to a crack up higher then to some chicken heads and a small chimney. Belay above it.Another one of thos...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of Goosehead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Hein aiding 'The Bill' on Goosehead  flickr.c...
Dave Hein aiding 'The Bill' on Goosehead flickr.c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave belays John on The Bill (Aid Route)  www.flic...
Dave belays John on The Bill (Aid Route) www.flic...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset on top of the Goose Head via Golden Egg   P...
Sunset on top of the Goose Head via Golden Egg P...
Rock Climbing Photo: on top of goosehead
on top of goosehead
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben exploring around the Goosehead. Unfortunately ...
Ben exploring around the Goosehead. Unfortunately ...

Comments on Goosehead Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 12, 2007
SQII lists a bolted 5.7 on the Phallus. I was down there today and I am pretty sure I was at the Phallus because I saw two routes that looked like 11's and shared the same start on the side facing the highway, but the slabby ridge where I thought the 7 was didn't seem to have any trace of a route on it. Is there a misprint or was it chopped... maybe it is on one of the other formations??? I didn't really see places for gear on that ridge.
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Jun 12, 2007
Had the same experience there several year's ago. Could not locate any moderate on the "Phallus."
By jbak
Jun 12, 2007
All right ! Masters of the obscure.

If you are looking at MUSTANG RANCH on the PHALLUS, go down to the toe of the formation, then continue on around a bit to the SE side. There is a crack system leading up to the ridge. The start is fairly strenuous (5.9 ?) jamming up these cracks to gain the ridge. Then you basically solo the ridge (one nut I think) to gain the summit. I don't remember any bolts at all. A justly obscure route and not a place to take your beginner friends.
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Nov 14, 2007
does anybody know about the line that goes through the roof? I've heard there is an old aid route there...
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 14, 2007
Last and only time I checked a bolt ladder of old quarter-inchers was still there. IIRC they sort of ran out before the actual top-out, or maybe I just couldn't see the last ones. Just getting to the ladder seemed like a slightly dicey traverse too? I'll check if the Steiger guide has anything on it..

You can see them as you drive by if you look closely enough (not recommended for the driver hehe)
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 15, 2007
Steiger guide says roughly: "The Bill" - 5.6 A1-A4 (depending on whether the old bolts shear off). Bolt ladder then some easy free climbing. A couple of aid moves to get to the ledge where the bolt ladder starts.
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Nov 17, 2007
Thanks, sounds like a lot of fun or a bad day...
By Dwook
Mar 1, 2010
Just did the aid route under the bill...What an awesome bolt ladder. I would say if your bored and you want to practice some aid this is a great spot to practice. The bolts are in very good condition, all the death bolts have been replaced. Major props to whomever hand drilled these bolts...That must have been tiring. Btw, you can easily free climb the first part up to the belay ledge and you can do it in one pitch with minimal rope drag.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About