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East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Gooseberry Jam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Kamps '59
Page Views: 1,763
Submitted By: John Gunnels on Mar 5, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: From left to right: Crocodile, Casper College, Bu...

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


If big crack are your style, then enjoy this beauty. The crux is not technically difficult... just awkward... and comes mid pitch one.

P1: Begin with the initial moves of Belle Fourche Buttress. Continue up the wide crack to the top of the buttress. This is a 150 ft. pitch... SAVE THE GAS! Most parties rappel from the anchors here.

P2: Continue straight up to the large roofs. Traverse left a couple cracks and climb through the roof about 50 ft. to a large belay ledge.

P3 & 4: Same as Casper College.


Between Burning Daylight and Belle Fourche Buttress.


Standard Tower rack with extra 3 & 4 inch pieces. Maybe even a #5 Camalot?

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By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Jul 3, 2016

A #5 and #6 are certainly useful. If you didn't bring anything bigger than a number 4 the upper half would be very runout.

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