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The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)
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Beta Maniac TR 
Cactus Box T 
Gook Magic T 
Honest Abe T 
I Wanna Be Sedated TR 
It Just Turns Into A Seam! TR 
La Petit Mort TR 
Ninja Turtle Crack TR 
Pull My Finger TR 
Revolution Whenever TR 
Ring of Fire T 
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Slim Pickens TR 
True Grit T 

Gook Magic 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Theo Takeda (late 90s?)
Page Views: 23
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Jul 16, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Gook Magic

Description 

This climbed up the obvious S-shaped hand crack, then pull some technical maneuvers straight up the face above the S-crack. The climb is much harder than it looks.

Location 

This route is on the right side of the crag approximately 70 feet to the right of Cactus Box.

Protection 

2-bolt anchor


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By Wa3lt
Jan 1, 2009

FA on this was by Theo Takeda in the late 90s?
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This climb has a 2-bolt anchor, though the ratty rope/sling probably ought to be replaced, with chains, ideally.

I think I heard somewhere that Walt W. put the anchors in here a while ago, so people in the houses above would be less aware of climbers below.

Rack with nuts & cams up to #2 camalot, with 2 each of #1 camalot helpful.
By Wa3lt
Mar 22, 2009

Hey George - I don't remember bolting any anchors at Estante/Crack House. Maybe I did, though. It's certainly possible.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 2, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The sling on the bolts has been replaced with new sling. The hangers are homemade and a bit sharp on the inside of the bolt hole so the new sling is padded by chunks of the old sling. It would be best to replace the hangers with new hangers should anyone feel inclined. This anchor also serves Ninja Turtle Crack (if we climbed the "correct" line).

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