Start just right of Flakey
(See beta photo
and photo below). Scramble up and right to a crack. The first option is to go straight up to a finger crack which will join Flakey
. The second option is to follow an overhanging crack to the right, maneuver around a large bush then take an offwidth up to the upper crack of Flakey
. Smaller people may be able to squeeze through an avoid the offwidth. The physical crux for me was the overhanging crack and the bush. The mental crux was running it out up the easy offwidth with no gear (largest piece #5 Camalot). I thought the route for me was a little more challenging (exciting) than its neighbor Flakey
The route starts just right of Flakey
. 60m rope will get you to ground off the tree. You may need to bring rap slings.
Mostly big stuff if you take the second option. Multiples in the 3-4 inch range for sewing up the upper crack. #6 Friend/BigBros for the offwidth.
By Jay Eggleston
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
The first described option is the actual route, but the crack is more of a hand crack than a finger crack. The second option described is not part of the route. If you go to the right along the undercling flake, the route joins Garden Party. The original poster of this route could have a first ascent going up the offwidth crack he describes.