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Routes in Deers Leap (Windham)
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Andy's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Broken Toe (Walk On The Wildside Variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cross The Reaper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Georges Route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Georgiana T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Goofer's Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hooterville (most obvious version) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hungry's Burnt (a.k.a. the Dogs Face Crack) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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I'll Tell You What You Missed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Saber, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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That is That T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walk on the Wild Side T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wall, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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You Tell Me What You Saw T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | A. Kling Nov 1981 |
| Page Views: | 1,843 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Ming on Sep 18, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
See beta picture. Start on the left crack and climb it as it goes right. Powerful movement will get you off the ground, small gear protects till it tapers off, then it's a committing move straight up to the roof crack and continue up the roof crack right with little feet and a committing mantle to top out. The old guidebook says use the tree for anchor but you can set up a very good anchor at the lunch ledge.
Moving left instead of right at the roof is a variation called "Lunch Ledge," FA G. Deyett which goes to the small ledge and then around the corner up the face, 5.6 after rounding the corner.
So ALL the cracks flares in one way or another, so please be a solid trad leader for this one.
Protection
small gear at the bottom, bigger but trickier gear protects the exit. The roof crack flairs near the exit but there is one spot where the crack doesn't flair and you can get perfect placement if you can spot it. Otherwise the runout to the exit is spicy. Study the beta pic if you want excellent gear beta (hint, it's color coded).
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