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Glacier Point Apron - Center
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Coonyard Pinnacle T 
Galactic Hitchhiker T,S 
Goblet, The T,TR 
Goodrich Pinnacle-Left Side T 
Goodrich Pinnacle-Right Side T 
Goodrich to the Oasis T 
Hall of Mirrors T 
McPherson Struts T 
Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack T 
Monday Morning Slab, Harry Daley Route T 
Monday Morning Slab, Left Side T 
Monday Morning Slab, Right Side T 
Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route T 
Variation on a Theme T,TR 

Goodrich Pinnacle-Right Side 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Royal Robbins, Liz Robbins, TM Herbert, 1964.
Page Views: 5,027
Submitted By: Blitzo on May 19, 2007  with updates from Mike Dahlquist

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Eric goes looking for the final chimney

  • Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron MORE INFO >>>
  • Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Goodrich Pinnacle is seen up and left of Monday Morning Slab. A 700' exfoliation slab, with a distinct left-side. The right-side is only a side for the last 100'.
    Start from the top of the Gob, a slabby formation a few hundred feet left of Monday Morning Slab and directly below the pinnacle.
    Climb (5.5) above the Gob to a sandy Belay ledge.
    Climb up and right between a dihedral and a white flake (5.7). Belay at the top of the flake.
    Climb up to a to a left-diagonaling crack . At the cracks end, move up and right (5.8) to a belay ledge.
    Climb up (5.7) to where a traverse right leads to a belay anchor.
    Move up to a bolt, then move left (5.9) to the base of the right-side chimney.
    Climb the chimney (5.7) to the top of the pinnacle.


    Standard rack.

    Photos of Goodrich Pinnacle-Right Side Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: P5 slab
    P5 slab
    Rock Climbing Photo: Eric, pure slab, p4
    Eric, pure slab, p4
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3.
    BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2.
    BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1.
    BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Somwhere up high on Goodrich.
    Somwhere up high on Goodrich.

    Comments on Goodrich Pinnacle-Right Side Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 4, 2007

    This is a fun route with great slab climbing but also chimneying. It may seem runout if you are not used to it.
    By vincent L.
    From: Redwood City
    Mar 2, 2008

    Wonderful route. If it is at all wet on the glacier point apron, this route may well be wet. I was up near the fourth pitch which is kind of runout on a fixed pin that looked pretty old. I look up the wall above me and the slightest trickle of water was approaching, just like when you wash your car and the first bits of water start running down the gutter.

    I did the friction moves wet, and after that the water just increased. The route was mostly wet. On the pitch before the final chimney, I believe it says you go straight up from the belay and past a few bolts, and the supertopo says it is 5.7 . These moves going straight up I feel are more like 5.10, if you clip one of those bolts, then traverse right a ways and then go up, you can keep it 5.7 .

    Bring two ropes to rappel the route.
    By snowey
    Jun 13, 2008

    Connect this with Galactic Hitchhiker for a wonderful 20+ pitch day.
    By Sarah Kate
    From: Seattle, WA
    Jul 28, 2009

    There is no "easy" way on the top pitch. You can do a weird double-right-angles-rope-drag-from-hell 5.9 (the right variation) or the absolutely-unprotected-but-easier-5.9 direct. After going up with a Yosemite virgin and a Yosemite old-timer, we both agreed that the direct (left) option was preferable.
    By Jeff Edge
    Oct 19, 2014

    Crack climbing pitches are fun and easy, and the 5.8 psychological crux was not bad at all so maybe I was off route on (the supertopo) pitch 5, but I traversed straight right from the p4 anchor, did not find a piton and barely made it to the two bolts (no rings) just below the "5.9 crux" and ".75 cam." The hard moves on this pitch felt far harder than the "5.9 crux" move and were very runout. If I hadn't been linking pitches I would've been looking at a 30 ft factor 2 pendulum fall, definitely not ideal. Last pitch chimney was fun and didn't require much actual chimneying. Didn't think the route was nearly as good as the supertopo guide makes it out to be.
    By AussiePete
    Nov 8, 2014

    Climbed this a couple of weeks ago. Quite the experience! I thought I'd share some observations.

    P1 and P2 are pretty forgettable. P3 was fun and cruisy, then the fun begins. On the start of P4 I didn't follow the left trending crack far enough. You get to a point where it pretty much has you traversing a fair way out left with a bolt in the distance and bare slab above. On the Supertopo topo the line looked straighter than this so rather than traverse out left I plugged a pretty decent small cam in and went straight on up. Don't do this! Keep going left to the bolt and then go up from there. What I did was ok but it does mean some pretty runout and heady moves are protected by small gear. Having safely reached the P4 belay we then had ring side seats as the leader of the party behind us did exactly what I did, only fell high above his gear on the runout bit. It was a nasty 50' fall. He was shaken and lost a fair bit of skin but to his credit composed himself and reclimbed the pitch. Given there is nothing you can do to improve your odds other than not falling, this was a good effort!

    P5 felt very strange to me. I couldn't find the mystery piton or the .75 cam placement. In the end I just traversed up and way right from the P4 belay probably around 30 feet (felt like 100!) to two bolts (one old, one new) and from there up to a two bolt anchor (one with a ring/shackle). That initial right trending traverse is totally unprotected and it would be an unpleasant pendulum fall direct onto the anchor, certainly not factor 2 forces given the amount of sliding the leader would be doing but it wouldn't be fun. By this stage the wind was blowing hard and it was pretty chilly (we'd started in warm sunshine and I was under dressed). I climbed the first half of P6, past the three closely spaced bolts, and then down climbed and we bailed.

    All in all a challenging and rewarding undertaking but take the R grading seriously and go in with your eyes open. If you're up for a challenge though then you'll have a ball. We did, albeit with the benefit of reflection and typing this from the safety of my couch back in Australia ;)
    By michael s...
    From: Denver, CO
    Apr 19, 2015

    My experience was the supertopo description for this climb is a bit of a sandbag. We found it to be more serious than anticipated.
    By John Groh
    Apr 18, 2016

    I'll add my two cents by also agreeing that the supertopo wasn't completely accurate. There was more pro on what he labels on the "psychological crux" pitch, and if you take the right variation to avoid the 150' direct unprotected 5.9 slab, the traverse after the 3 closely-spaced bolts definitely doesn't just start immediately to the left of the 3rd one. Either you have to go up another 10-15' (felt like solid 5.10 or higher slab) or traverse just below the 1st of the 3 bolts (felt like 5.8).

    Neat route though. Next time I think I'll try the direct variation.
    By Jean C
    Nov 14, 2016

    On pitch 5, if you're looking for the mystery piton it is about 15 feet directly above the belay station. You can't see it, but trust me it's there. Then traverse right to two bolts, then move up about 10 feet, place a 0.4 camalot in the only crack there, and move up the slab to the belay station. We bailed here because the upper pitches looked wet, and we found this climb to be more psychologically taxing than we wanted.

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