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The Pear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Devil's Lake Revisited T 
Dextrous Digits T,TR 
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 
Finger Tripping T 
Gina's Surprise T 
Good Timing T,S 
Heavenly Journey T 
Jam on It T,TR 
La Chaim T 
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 
Neko's Route T,S 
Northern Lights T 
Pit of the Pear, The T 
Platinum Stethoscope T 
Right Dihedral T 
Root of All Evil T 
Salud T 
Sibling Rivalry T,S 
Slippage T 
Sloper Ramp 
Sweet Sabrina T 
Thorazine T 
Whole Thing T 
Unsorted Routes:

Good Timing 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Webster, mid-1980s
Page Views: 1,077
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

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Luke Clarke belaying. At the 3rd bolt before movin...

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This route starts in the center of the Pear.

P1. Get on top of some blocks, about 100 feet right of the Batrachian Dihedral and below a long roof band about 100 feet up. Climb a 5.7 slab with less-than-perfect protection, turn the roof near (but not in!) a break on the right (5.8, #1.5 Friend just above the roof), and traverse about 20 feet left to a belay at 2 bolts. It is somewhat scary for the second unless creative protection can be arranged above the roof. 190'.

P2. Engage excellent slab climbing up and slightly right past 3 bolts; head right into an easier crack, and belay on a ledge. You can continue to a tree.

P3. Do an easy rightward traverse, gaining some elevation, to find the walk-off or a short rappel on the east side of the cliff.


Light standard rack to a #3.5 Friend.

Photos of Good Timing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Turning the roof on pitch one. A good yellow TCU o...
Turning the roof on pitch one. A good yellow TCU o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2, near the 2nd bolt.
Pitch 2, near the 2nd bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the 5.8 roof. Traverse straight left from ...
Pulling the 5.8 roof. Traverse straight left from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting pitch 1.
Starting pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Errett on the second pitch.
Errett on the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Howard pulling the 5.8 roof on pitch one.
Howard pulling the 5.8 roof on pitch one.

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By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 18, 2001

When Charles and I climbed this, we couldn't find the 4th bolt mentioned in the guidebook. Also, the new Gillett guidebook has downrated this route to 5.9, but to me it definitely felt like 5.10a.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 21, 2003

On the pitch 1 roof, the second can take out the cams at the lip after doing the move, thus avoiding a potential death swing. On pitch 2 there are 4 bolts. The 4th bolt is hidden in a dish. At the third bolt, move left. Microcam or maybe a brass nut can be placed. Then straight up or further left and angle right to the 4th bolt. Above this a flared crack soon begins. I believe this crack is further left than the crack mentioned above. Belay just above the base of this crack, or combine with the next pitch up the crack with a 70m rope. The face right of this pitch 2 crack can be climbed on TR at about 5.9.

This "10a" pitch felt a full number grade easier than Finger Tripping ("10a/b") based on the consensus of the 3 climbers in our party. In our opinion, one of the two routes is mis-rated. Not being a slab climber, I'd prefer Good Timing to be 10a, meaning I'm not that bad a slab climber after all, and Finger Tripping to be much harder, and hence explaining my backing off that one with fearful thoughts.
By Alex Chiang
Jun 6, 2004

I had the 2001 Gillett book, and it claims a 5.9 rating, which I thought was legit, albeit on the stiff side. Then again, I expect most routes at Lumpy to be stiff, so take that comment for what it's worth.

The roof on P1 protects nicely for the leader, as you can get a piece in above your head, but I couldn't figure out a good way to protect the second. Perhaps a #5 of profanity and a friendly "don't fall" comment while you're nice and safe at the belay bolts.

I only saw 3 bolts as of June-2004 on P2. Maybe I didn't do the route correctly, but after clipping the 3rd bolt, I traversed to the right and escaped into the noticably easier crack. In other words, I did not climb on the slab above the 3rd bolt.

Whatever, I'd had enough of the spicy routes for the day, so I didn't mind taking the easier escape route.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 24, 2007

Agree with Ivan, Finger Tripping is much harder. You can protect the 2nd above the roof with a yellow Alien/TCU about 12' up in a lip. If you try to go to the tree on P2, it will be a rope stretcher with a 60m rope. On the fat side of 2 stars.

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