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Good Time To Be Pretty 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 338
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 10, 2016

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Clipping up just below the crux.

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Description 

This outstanding route is characterized by a series of thin cruxes split by good, active rests. The climbing is excellent and sustained throughout, on phenomenal stone.

Hard, technical face climbing typical of the wall leads to the first bolt and a good shake at the obvious break. Relatively easier moves lead to the next break and a taxing rest before the route’s crux — a long reach past the third bolt. This problem can be surmounted with power or guile (or perhaps a huge wingspan), depending on your skillset. Another short boulder problem leads to a small roof capped by a blank headwall. Move slightly right here to find incut, hero jugs that lead to the anchor.

Location 

This is the second bolted line from the left.

Protection 

A stick clip is mandatory. 5 bolts to 2 BA.


Photos of Good Time To Be Pretty Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A devious span to clear the final bulge.
A devious span to clear the final bulge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying gorgeous stone on Good Time To Be Pretty.
Enjoying gorgeous stone on Good Time To Be Pretty.

Comments on Good Time To Be Pretty Add Comment
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By aikibujin
From: Castle Rock, CO
Mar 24, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The crux on this one was almost a show stopper for me. I thought the move was impossible, until I figured out some unlikely beta. For reference, I'm 5'7" with 0 ape index, and I was just barely able to get my finger tips on the good hold above the undercling. If you have less of a wingspan, you'll have to use some very small intermediate holds on the blank face between the undercling and the good hold above.

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