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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Good Ship Venus 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
Season: Faces WSW, gets afternoon sun.
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 30, 2010  with updates from Dave Holliday

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  • Description 

    This climb is named after what may be the most bawdy and crude song ever written. The only thing I can think of that comes close is Whores of Balitimore. Remarkably, both can be found on the same album: Rogue's Gallery, a collection of Pirate Ballads, Sea Songs, and Chanteys.

    This climb actually has good climbing down low and up high. There is also plenty of solid rock for gear- too bad you have to focus on staying on that and dodging choss. Otherwise it would be a better climb.

    Access the ledge from the corner to approach for The Side Wall, Practice Climb 101, and Rhombohedral, move left 10+ meters to below a system of dirty-looking parallel cracks in chunky rock that go perhaps 15m to a tree. Start up the left-most of these with surprisingly good holds and protection (crux) and work progressively to the right to avoid bad rock and the looming tree above.

    Clip a sling to the anchors on the tree and look up and right to a tree at 110' off of the ground. Climb up mixed cracks and face trending generally rightward to reach that tree and the fixed raps slings on it.

    Per Dave Holliday: the second pitch of this route goes up the right-facing corner just to the left. The top of the second pitch ends at another good ledge.

    Rap ~100' to the ground. If you have a short 60m, watch out at the end.

    Per Dave Holliday: after 2 pitches, one could rappel off trees (70m rope useful to get to the ground from the tree atop the first pitch), but given the amount of loose rock in this area, consider traversing climber's right to the Long John Wall/Sooberb descent route.


    Start this route from a ledge 10' over the trail as for Rhombohedral, but 10+ meters to the left (uphill).


    A standard trad rack from med sized nuts to #3 Camalot. A #4 Camalot is optional, but I didn't have it and was fine. Lots of 2' runners though, as this route winds it's way up multiple cracks through ledges and bulges.

    Comments on Good Ship Venus Add Comment
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    By Dave Holliday
    May 13, 2014

    This route has a second pitch. The first pitch ends at a large ledge with an alcove at the back. Muscle and Hate goes up the right side of the alcove while the second pitch of this route goes up the right-facing corner just to the left. The top of the second pitch ends at another good ledge. One could rappel straight back down from trees but a better way (considering the amount of loose rock in this area) is to traverse climber's right over to the Long John Wall/Sooberb descent route.

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