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Good Intentions T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Good Intentions 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Buddy Price, Doc Bayne - 1977
Page Views: 4,074
Submitted By: saxfiend on May 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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My grandson surveying the crux of Good Intentions ...


A nice warmup for the other great South Face climbs, but not a casual route for the grade. Put thoughts like "this doesn't feel like 5.6" out of your mind and enjoy the friction climbing.

Starting below right-slanting crack, follow it up and right; after the crack peters out, continue straight up on mainly friction moves to the tree ledge above. If you don't feel like rapping at this point, you can move to the left end of the ledge to the start of Afterbirth (which will take you to the Gemini rap station).


Starts about 25' left of Left Up at an obvious slanting crack. Rap from rap rings at the ledge.


Small to medium gear; tricams are handy.

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By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
May 29, 2007

This didn't feel like 5.6. :-)
By Joseph Brown
From: Mt. Olive, NJ
Sep 3, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a comfortable route with good placements - just keep going right-up-right, rather than up-right-up - the placements start drying up on the left side as you get closer to the ledge.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 19, 2010

The best route on this little wall IMO; it actually stays engaging for the entire pitch. I don't know about the grade, but I saw two 4 year olds TR this thing....
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011

Another Great warm up! Good placements most of the way up, things get a little more spread out as you reach the top but its on easy ground. Simple way to access the ledge for TR set ups on other climbs. Fun climbing plain and simple!

If you didn't get your fix on the first pitch my partner and I decided to continue straight up, pulling the immediate roof off the ledge and left then continuing to the summit. There is good pro and the climbing is equal or lesser grade. Its not in the book but there are plenty of massive trees you can rappel off once you reach the top. I am sure someone must have climbed this line before, regardless we decided to name it "Taste of Blood"!!
By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great warm up and introduction to slab for new climbers. Gear is good. The crux move miggggght be 5.7, but it's all there. You just gotta trust your feet, they'll stick. I think 5.6 is fair.
By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Oct 20, 2014

70 meter rope is needed if you take it to the old TAT above the 1st tree. That was a nice surprise.

It's pretty un-natural to try and take this over to the Anchors of "Left-up", which is what I guess people are expected to do. I added a quick link to the tree with some tat (35M from the ground), since there was none. One would think this would have been fixed up differently since it is normally guided to death.

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