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Good Friday - North Tower West Face T 

Good Friday - North Tower West Face 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dyer, Schlick, Burcham, 2001. FFA: Abel Jones, 2012.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 646
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Dec 4, 2006

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North Tower West Face


This route was originally posted by JJ Schlick, and turned over to me to incorporate some more recent updates. It is overall a very enjoyable route with mostly clean, engaging 5.10 climbing, a short but burly crux, and just a bit of easy, junky terrain at the top. It deserves more attention than it seems to receive, and makes a nice combo with any of the neighboring spire lines.

P1--The line starts in the middle of the west face, off of the limestone ledge, and follows a shallow corner/crack system with a bolt about 15' up. There are many different "mini cruxes" separated by decent stances that add up to a full value lead at the grade! The rock is generally quite good. The pitch ends at a small shelf belay with 2 bolts/chains. (5.10, 100' or so)

P2--Stretch left from the belay shelf and clip a bolt, boulder out the crux on good features past a 2nd bolt, and follow a mellower crack up to the really nice, "sterilized", Budweiser Ledge and a two bolt belay (no chains). (5.10, 50')

P3--Launch up the left-facing dihedral above with great fingers in a flake that quickly pinch down to tips in an awkward flare. Wriggle up this until just a bit under the roof and bust a hard left using face holds. The crux sequence culminates in a desperate mantle onto the small belay ledge at the left end of the roof. This is a very sequential, awkward, and burly bit of climbing, and it will be tricky to protect the face traverse as the roof crack is a bit above the actual climbing. The pro is small, Green and Red C3 size, but good as the rock on this pitch is some of the best I've seen in Sedona. Of course, this stretch can be easily aided through to keep the line at 5.10 C1. Belay on the ledge immediately above the roof to avoid the potential for heinous drag. There is one bolt and an adjacent crack for gear (.5-#1 BD). (5.12- ish, 25')

P4--Cut up and left trying to avoid the bigger blocks to the large flat summit. This pitch has the only loose rock on the route. The anchors are set back from the top out by about 20', and are on the actual summit block. (5.7, 25')

Scramble up the summit block to tag the top.

On the first rappel, aim skier's left (west) and toward the notch between North Church Spire and the adjacent wall with the route Praying Hands. An anchor on Praying Hands will be visible on a large ledge system, but the 2nd rap anchor for Good Friday won't be visible from above. This hidden anchor is on the same ledge system as the visible one, but is closer to the North Church Spire. From this anchor, rap to the ground. A single 60m rope is adequate, with the 1st rappel being close to 100'.


(1-2X) green C3/purple TCU, (3X) red C3/blue TCU-#.75 Camalot, (2X) #1-#2 Camalot, (1X) #3 Camalot, slings.

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By Seth Dyer
Dec 14, 2006

This route is called Good Friday. The first two pitches take you to the Budweiser Ledge (scene of Burcham's bachelor party along with a 30 pack). The last pitch is 5.10 C1.
By Abel Jones
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

The third pitch went free at 11+ 4/16/12. The crux involves wild crack protected face moves on great holds. Had to down aid the crack to get back to budweiser to get off. It's either that or top out on chunky terrain and find a way off or rap off a lone bolt. Pretty fun climb overall.
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 17, 2012

Nice work Abel. That was one I never went back for. If you feel up to rewriting the description let me know.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Jan 17, 2015

Really enjoyed this route, although I certainly didn't get the crux free even seconding it. Almost the entire line is clean and well-protected, with great hardware in all the right spots--no real shock given the FA party. This line deserves more traffic!
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 19, 2015

This route is awesome and needs some love! The third pitch roof is awkward as all hell but has really good rock (as does the entire route except the easy top out). I didn't send the whole pitch but I freed the entire roof section after a few tries and 11+ may be a bit conservative ;)
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 25, 2015

Thanks for the more complete route description Trevor. The Budwieser ledge is aptly named.... I know we have a few photos from Burcham's bachelor party. I'll try to find them. As for the roof pitch, I do remember thinking it would be more in the .12- range but only played around on it a bit.

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