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Gandalf Wall
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Gandalf T 
Gollum T 

Gollum 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 330'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Arild Meyer, Sjur Nesheim 1985
Page Views: 671
Submitted By: Aaron Liebling on Aug 19, 2014

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Gollum follows the crack system to the left of Gan...

Description 

3 pitches of typical Lofoten granite - mixed jamming and face climbing. Aesthetic and enjoyable well-protected climbing.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 40m) - From the block jam up the crack to a sloping stance.

Pitch 2 (5.7, 35m) - Continue up the crack and over a short slab. Finally, up some thin cracks and a steeper wall to another stance.

Pitch 3 (5.7 25m) - Bear right around a prominent flake, following easier terrain to the top.

Note that it is possible to belay at many different locations and quite easy to miss one of the guidebook belays. One can climb until gear gets low or rope drag dictates stopping.

Location 

Just to the left of Gandalf. Starts from the tip of the large block between them.

Protection 

Standard rack


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Rock Climbing Photo: Start of route.
Start of route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gollum follows the crack system to the left of Gan...
Gollum follows the crack system to the left of Gan...

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