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El Capitan Base Routes
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Ahab T 
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Captain Hook, Left T 
Captain Hook, Right T 
Delectable Pinnacle, Right  T 
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Gollum T 
Hardly Pinnacle T 
Indubious Battle T 
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Little John, Left T 
Little John, Right T 
Mark of Art T 
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 
Moby Dick T 
Moby Dick, Left T 
Party Mix T 
Peter Left T 
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Pine Line T 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 
Reeds Leads T 
Rock Neurotic S 
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Salathe (pitch 1) T 
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Short But Thin T 
Simulkrime T,TR 
Slack ( center), The T 
Slack, Left, The T 
Sparkling Give-away T,S 
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe Kelsey, Roman Laba, John Hudson, Sept., 1967.
Page Views: 2,933
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


The Gollum is a precarious stack of blocks, forming a pinnacle in a spectacular location.
The right side is 5.8.
The left side is 5.10a offwidth.


From the toe of the Nose, walk up right past a large scoop. "Gollum" is on the right edge.


Pro to 3".

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By Rob Dillon
May 4, 2010

Pro to 5" is more like it ever seen this thing?
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
May 4, 2010

Definitely bring your #6 friend for the left side. Or better yet, "Don't leave home without it!"

The right side is great hands and the pro to 3" is correct, but don't ever take Blitzo's word for it!
By Bonesaw
From: CA
Mar 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Led the right side with lots of waterfall from above (snowmelt/runoff from top of El Cap). IMO, this is a SPENDID route! Yes, I gave it 4 stars and I honestly like it that much! Well worth the approach. I also think it is probably the stiffest 5.8 I've been on. Certainly seems more like 5.9. Still need to get on the left side, but by the time we finished the right, I was wet and so was everything I left at the base... cold and wet, still worth it!
By Peter Haan
Dec 24, 2012

I agree. The right side is a very unique, intense little 5.8. It might even verge on 5.9. It looks easier than it is and also looks junky. But you are actually constantly engaged in stellar little crux-ettes all the way up and protection is certainly adequate. I was surprised like other posters here, how good a route this little thing is. Summit is pretty amazing: tiny and perched up under the gigantic overhanging wall below South Seas, Pacific Ocean et al.

The left side is one of the more miraculous 5.10s I have ever put up. You are dead horizontal in this offwidth but find way-hefty cracks and holds both inside the offwidth for your left hand but giant footholds out on the roof surface for your right foot. Although in a classic offwidth position, you are actually faceclimbing more than crack climbing there. The last bit of the pitch and which ends on the micro-summit, almost gets to be harder than down below as the crack pinches off and the wall gets way steep. This is a very rewarding and dramatic climb that never really gets very hard. Safe also, btw.

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