REI Community
Trojan Bunny Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Botany of Desire S 
Bruise Collector, The S 
Bucket List, The T,S 
Crawfish S 
Cuervo Gold S 
Delivering Dynos S 
Dog Will Hunt S 
Europithacus S 
Fire On The Mountain T,S 
Goldshut Arete S 
Half Cracked T,TR 
Lick My Plate T,S 
Only A Flesh Wound S 
Pondemonium T,S 
Sloping Surprise S 
Sonata T 
Streatch T,S 
Temptation Arete S 

Goldshut Arete 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: summer, fall
Page Views: 212
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Aug 30, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This has really nice arete and face climbing. The first crux is at the 4th bolt, and a second crux is just before hitting the anchors. There is good rock and fun movement on the face and arete.

Location 

This pitch is on the North face of the rock and starts just left of Fire on the Mountain. The first bolt is on the right side of the arete, and then you switch to the left side.

There is a mid-point anchor at 50 or 60 feet or continue to the top via Sonata. A 60m will barely make it down from the top anchor. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

Protection 

It is fully bolted, although you can extend this into a long pitch by continuing up the upper arete of Sonata. To do this, bring a #0.3 and 0.4 size BD Camalots.


Comments on Goldshut Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Rolofson
May 11, 2017
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

There are two ways to get to the anchor. The easier way moves right onto Fire On The Mountain for more moderate terrain & reaches back left to the anchor. For full value & a crux finish, climb the smooth slab directly up the right side of the arete (.11c/d) past the last bolt. I thought the lower crux at the 3rd bolt was .11c.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About