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(9) Above the Waves
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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Matt Robertson, 11/2004 (trad)
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Feb 16, 2014

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Prepping for the send... on top-rope

Bolts Are Failing! MORE INFO >>>


Either pull bouldery, unprotected moves through the low overhang, or step up the dihedral to the left. Move into the right-leaning hand crack through the overhanging orange wall. Find painful jams to get you up to a few positive horizontals. Plug your last piece and gun it through the sidepulls and crimps to the ledge jugs. Knees are okay for the finish.


Below the Gold Wall, just before you step up to routes likes Great Pumpkin and Snake Alley


Gear to 2"
Titanium anchors (2016)

Photos of Goldline Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiroshi jammin it out
Hiroshi jammin it out

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By BrianWS
Feb 16, 2014

This line was allegedly bolted before Matt's recorded ascent, and I'm sure the FFA has been disputed by Taiwanese climbers.

I did, however, witness Matt on what is surely the route's first solo ascent. That was a pretty ballsy endeavor...
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Feb 17, 2014

How did he get back down?
By BrianWS
Feb 17, 2014

He traversed right along the belay ledge and downclimbed one of the 5.singledigit routes nearby. It was pretty heroic - he spent a good bit of time debating whether or not it was a good ideas in the first place. Very weixian, indeed.

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