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YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: equipped by Mark Rolofson, FFA: Alan Nelson, 1994
Page Views: 1,864
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Jun 19, 2007

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Enjoying the excellent 5.10+ start of Goldfinger. ...

Normal access is closed. MORE INFO >>>


This lengthy route climbs the center of the immaculate stone to the right of Stiletto. A rock climber with even the slightest attraction towards aesthetics will be magnetically drawn to this line.

Climb through a ~20 foot band of choss to a small ledge and your first bolt. Continue up the just off-vertical face on five star stone for ~55 ft, moving between good edges and flakes (10d). Clip the bolt above the small roof from a slopping rail, then catch your breath before a series of thin holds and engaging footwork (13a). Continue directly into a puzzling 12+ finish to the only big hold on the route, exhale. Classic.


9 QDs, 2 bolt anchor. Small-medium gear for choss at bottom is optional.

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By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 29, 2012

Anyone know the secret to the upper section? I got past the crux (according to the guide) but can't figure out the puzzling 12+ section after the jug sidepull.
May 30, 2016
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

A few hard tugs on micro crimps to get over the small overhang, then surgical grade footwork to the top. Excellent pitch.
By Mark Rolofson
Jul 9, 2016
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Here is the first ascent history of this technical vertical face climb. I equipped the line in Fall 1992. The weather soon turned too cold to work on the route. I returned several times in 1993 & 1994 with a variety of partners who were not interested to putting in the effort to send the route. The crimpy, small edges nature of the hard climbing isn't enjoyable at first. It becomes enjoyable & exhilarating after conditioning the fingers for the holds.
In Fall of 1994, I took Alan Nelson to the crag, & he instantly became interested & focused on the line. We returned numerous times together. He made the first redpoint in October 1994. I returned a few more times & finally sent the route on November 1, 1994, belayed by Ken Trout. Truly worth the effort. Even in the fall, I used "Dry Grip" to keep my fingers from sweating. A very memorable route that was worth the long hard effort I put into it to finally succeed.

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