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Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
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(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T 
Bad Finger Couloir, The 
Bib (1st Apron), The T 
Black and White T 
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River 
Crystal Couloir 
Diamond Couloir 
Double Dragon (right side) 
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 
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Goldfinger Couloir 
Iration T 
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T 
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte 
North Face Crag 
North Face Snowfield 
Northwest Couloir T 
Road Less Warren 
Road, The 
Shooting Star T 
Silhouette T 
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Snave, The 
Snorkmaiden's Surprise 
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Tike's Trike T 
Unsorted Routes:

Goldfinger Couloir 


Type:  Alpine, 500'
Original: Steep Snow PG13 [details]
FA: not known
Season: fall or spring most likely unless you like suffering )
Page Views: 2,587
Submitted By: Jason Kaplan on Jun 28, 2007

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Goldfinger June 1st '08.


This is a really fun couloir.

The crux is the steep roll before everything starts to funnel down into the choke (going down). It's probably at least 15 feet wide at the choke, and once through there is a group of rocks that split the line in the middle. I took the skinny line on lookers left at the bottom. Steepness, this line clocks in at about 50*, and the roll over at the top is usually near vertical if not a overhanging cornice, you can usually sneak in.


Just west of the Black Wall on Mt. Spaulding, there is a main drainage that funnels into this line. It is pretty easy to find, but there is definitely some commitment getting out. We left a car at Echo Lake and went down the Chicago Lakes Basin and up the main trail back to Echo Lake. There was lots of deep snow, willows, water, and bushwhacking.

EDIT: This year we climbed back out via the trail back up to Summit Lake, and it was way less slogging and death marching.


Beacon, shovel, probe, partners. I am not sure what you would use for going up (besides the obvious ice axes and crampons) but could probably use snow pickets or maybe some rock pro as the Black Wall is just to your left.

Photos of Goldfinger Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The line after we slayed it and as our third membe...
The line after we slayed it and as our third membe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Our third member, David, skiing as the storm clear...
Our third member, David, skiing as the storm clear...
Rock Climbing Photo: Goldfinger still fresh before anyone got to it.
BETA PHOTO: Goldfinger still fresh before anyone got to it.

Comments on Goldfinger Couloir Add Comment
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By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jun 28, 2007

Does anyone know anything about the line to the looker's right?

It looks way steeper, sustained, and skinnier, probably a great climb and a horrifying ride. It would be something else to get a descent down something like that. Probably 5-10 feet wide is my guess.
By Buff Johnson
Jun 29, 2007

Jay, I think that may be Badfinger, it's in Roach's 13er book I believe for Spalding.

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